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Frommer's vancouver & victiria 2004
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by Shawn Blore & Alexandra de Vries
Vancouver &
Victoria
2004
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
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Published by:
Wiley Publishing, Inc.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107
or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written
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317/572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected].
Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of
John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered
trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the
property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with
any product or vendor mentioned in this book.
ISBN 0-7645-4269-9
ISSN 1045-9316
Editor: Kendra Falkenstein
Production Editor: Suzanna R. Thompson
Cartographer: Dorit Kreisler and Roberta Stockwell
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Totem pole in Vancouver’s Stanley Park
Back cover photo: Victoria’s Butchart Gardens
For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support,
please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974,
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54321
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1 Frommer’s Favorite
Vancouver Experiences . . . . . . . .4
The Best Websites for
Vancouver & Victoria . . . . . . . . . .5
A Short History of
First Nations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
2 Frommer’s Favorite
Victoria Experiences . . . . . . . . . . .9
3 Frommer’s Favorite Experiences
Beyond Vancouver & Victoria . . .10
4 Two Trips of a Lifetime . . . . . . . .10
5 Best Vancouver Hotel Bets . . . . .11
6 Best Victoria Hotel Bets . . . . . . .12
7 Best Vancouver Dining Bets . . . .14
8 Best Victoria Dining Bets . . . . . .16
2 Planning Your Trip to Vancouver & Victoria 18
Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in Vancouver & Victoria 1
1 The Best of Vancouver & Victoria 3
1 Visitor Information &
Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . .18
2 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
The Canadian Dollar &
the U.S. Dollar . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
3 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Vancouver & Victoria
Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . .23
4 Insurance, Health & Safety . . . . .30
5 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .31
6 Getting to Vancouver . . . . . . . . .33
7 Getting to Victoria . . . . . . . . . . .37
8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . .38
Frommers.com: The
Complete Travel Resource . . . . .39
9 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . .40
3 Getting to Know Vancouver 42
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Fast Facts: Vancouver . . . . . . . .51
1 Downtown & Yaletown . . . . . . .55
Bed & Breakfast Registries . . . . .56
2 The West End . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65
3 The West Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70
4 The North Shore (North
Vancouver & West Vancouver) . . .73
4 Where to Stay in Vancouver 55
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1 The Inner Harbour & Nearby . . .186
The Best Bed-and-Breakfast
Registries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188
2 Downtown & Old Town . . . . . .194
3 Outside the Central Area . . . . .198
11 Where to Stay in Victoria 186
1 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . . .74
2 Downtown & Yaletown . . . . . . .76
3 Gastown & Chinatown . . . . . . .84
4 The West End . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85
5 The West Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89
6 The East Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
7 The North Shore . . . . . . . . . . . .96
8 Coffee, Sweets & Ice Cream . . . .97
Caffeine Nation . . . . . . . . . . . . .98
6 Exploring Vancouver 99
Sightseeing Suggestions . . . . . . .99
1 The Top Attractions . . . . . . . . .102
Granville’s Greatest Hits . . . . . .105
The Other Suspension Bridge . . .111
2 Architectural Highlights . . . . . .112
3 Neighborhoods to Explore . . . .115
4 Vancouver’s Plazas & Parks . . .118
5 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .121
6 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .124
7 Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . .127
8 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .136
7 Vancouver Strolls 137
5 Where to Dine in Vancouver 74
Walking Tour 1: Downtown
& the West End . . . . . . . . . . . .137
Walking Tour 2: Gastown
& Chinatown . . . . . . . . . . . . .142
Walking Tour 3: Kitsilano,
Granville Island & Yaletown . . .146
8 Vancouver Shopping 152
1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . .152 2 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . .153
iv CONTENTS
1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . .164
2 Laughter & Music . . . . . . . . . .168
3 Bars, Pubs & Other
Watering Holes . . . . . . . . . . . .169
4 Dance Clubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173
5 Gay & Lesbian Bars . . . . . . . . .175
6 Other Diversions . . . . . . . . . . .176
9 Vancouver After Dark 164
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .181
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .182
Fast Facts: Victoria . . . . . . . . .184
10 Getting to Know Victoria 178
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12 Where to Dine in Victoria 202
1 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . .202
2 The Inner Harbour . . . . . . . . . .203
3 Downtown & Old Town . . . . . .205
Taking Afternoon Tea . . . . . . . .206
Finding High-Octane Coffee . . .210
4 Outside the Central Area . . . . .212
13 Exploring Victoria 214
Sightseeing Suggestions . . . . . .214
1 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . . .215
On the Lookout: Victoria’s
Best Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219
Heading North to a
Provincial Park, a Native
Village & Some Wineries . . . . .222
2 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .225
3 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .226
4 Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . .228
14 Victoria Strolls & a Biking Tour 234
Walking Tour 1:
The Inner Harbour . . . . . . . . . .234
Walking Tour 2:
The Old Town & Chinatown . . .238
Biking Tour: Dallas Road . . . . .242
CONTENTS v
1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . .245 2 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . .245
15 Victoria Shopping 245
1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . .251
2 Music & Dance Clubs . . . . . . . .253
3 Lounges, Bars & Pubs . . . . . . .255
4 Gay & Lesbian Bars . . . . . . . . .256
16 Victoria After Dark 251
1 Whistler: One of North
America’s Premier
Ski Resorts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .257
2 Bamfield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .278
The West Coast Trail . . . . . . . .280
3 Ucluelet, Tofino &
Pacific Rim National Park
(Long Beach Section) . . . . . . . .281
B.C. Ranch Land . . . . . . . . . . .285
Two Trips of a Lifetime . . . . . .291
4 The Gulf Islands . . . . . . . . . . .292
17 Side Trips: The Best of British Columbia 257
Index 303
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List of Maps
Southern British Columbia 6
Greater Vancouver 46
Where to Stay in Downtown
Vancouver 58
Where to Dine in Downtown
Vancouver 78
Downtown Vancouver
Attractions 100
Stanley Park 103
Granville Island 107
Walking Tour 1: Downtown &
the West End 139
Walking Tour 2: Gastown &
Chinatown 143
Walking Tour 3: Kitsilano, Granville
Island & Yaletown 147
Where to Stay in Victoria 187
Where to Dine in Victoria 204
Victoria Attractions 217
Walking Tour 1: The Inner
Harbour 235
Walking Tour 2: The Old Town &
Chinatown 239
Southwestern British Columbia 259
Whistler Valley 261
Whistler Village 262
Pacific Rim National Park 283
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An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Vancouver & Victoria 2004
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
About the Authors
A native of California and resident by turns of Ottawa, Amsterdam, Moscow, and (for
nearly the past decade) Vancouver, Shawn Blore is a newspaper journalist, award-winning
magazine writer, and author of the bestselling Vancouver: Secrets of the City. He is also a
co-author of Frommer’s Canada, Frommer’s Brazil, and Frommer’s Portable Rio de Janeiro.
Alexandra de Vries took her first intercontinental flight at 6 weeks and developed a taste
for travel early on. A resident by turns of Amsterdam and Rio de Janeiro, she now lives in
Vancouver and reports on West Coast culture and places for Frommer’s readers. She is also
the co-author of Frommer’s Brazil and Frommer’s Portable Rio de Janeiro.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Irreverent Guide to Vancouver
Frommer’s Vancouver with Kids
Frommer’s British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies
Frommer’s Canada
Vancouver & Victoria For Dummies
The Unofficial Guide to Bed & Breakfasts and Country Inns
in the Northwest
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Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
Value
Tips
Overrated
Moments
Kids
Fun Fact
Finds
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What’s New in
Vancouver & Victoria
In the summer of 2003, Vancouver
was awarded hosting rights to the
2010 Olympic Winter Games. Still
6 years away, preparations are already
visible, and the excitement in the city
is palpable. Prices on real estate,
restaurants, and hotels are sure to go
up. Fortunately, at present, fabulous
restaurants and accommodations are
still a steal in Vancouver and Victoria,
compared to Toronto or Montreal.
VANCOUVER Accommodations
The Gallery Floor at the Listel Vancouver (1300 Robson St.; & 800/
663-5491 or 604/684-8461) proved
such a hit with guests that a museum
floor was the next logical step. For
the past several years, guests on the
penultimate Gallery floor have been
able to enjoy original works of art
from Vancouver’s Buschlen Mowatt
Gallery, temporarily displayed in the
Listel’s ever-so-tasteful rooms. Guests
on the top floor now have the
same artistic privilege, but the objets
d’art on display in the rooms come
from the vast collection of the UBC
Museum of Anthropology. As with the
Gallery rooms, Museum rooms contain detailed information on the artist
whose works are on display.
The Sunset Inn Travel Apartments
(1111 Burnaby St.; & 800/786-1997
or 604/688-2474) has always been a
steal, just a couple of blocks from English Bay on the edge of the residential
West End and offering apartment-size
accommodations (with full kitchens,
dining tables, and balconies) at a
more-than-reasonable price. For years
the only drawback was a kind of pastel
’80s decor, but the furnishings in the
top two floors have been fully renovated. The owner intends to continue
renovating until the entire inn is fully
updated.
The newest, nicest B&B in Kitsilano recently opened on a green and
leafy street just 10 minutes from the
beach. The Camelot Inn (2212 Larch
St.; & 604/739-6941) features rooms
lovingly restored to their early 1900s
condition, improved only with the
addition of Jacuzzi tubs, the perfect
prelude to the softest of sleigh beds.
Dining Vancouver’s dining scene
continues to churn, especially in Yaletown. Elixir (350 Davie St.; & 604/
642-0577) is a traditional French
brasserie that serves classic, even simple, brasserie food prepared with
excellent local Vancouver ingredients.
Enjoying an appetizer at Elixir’s long
round brass bar has become the way to
begin an evening downtown.
Just a cobblestone or two up the
street lies Glowbal Grill and Satay
Bar (1079 Mainland St.; & 604/
602-0835), a beautiful room with
beautiful people, and a cuisine that
unashamedly cruises the world for
tastes and flavors that get fused
together into small-plate meals.
Over on Robson Street, the latest
thing in Japanese food is Hapa
Izakaya (1479 Robson St.; & 604/
689-4272), where the cuisine features
inventive, nontraditional dishes such
as bacon-wrapped asparagus or negitori, fresh tuna belly chopped with
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spring onions served with munch-size
bits of garlic bread. It’s more bar and
grill than fussy sushi palace, and the
atmosphere is high-decibel quasichaos wonderful.
On Granville Street, near the
gallery district, meat has made a
comeback. Memphis Blues Barbeque
House (1465 W. Broadway; & 604/
738-6806) serves up real southern
barbecue—meat smoked for hours
over a low-heat hardwood fire. The
ribs come out tender enough to pull
apart with your fingers (which is how
food is eaten here—the cutlery is
mostly only for show).
Nightlife Lounges are back with an
oh-so-laid-back vengeance. Two new
Yaletown sit and schmooze spots lead
the pack. Afterglow (350 Davie St.;
& 604/642-0577) features intimate
couches and a soft soundtrack that
makes either for candlelit foreplay to
a satay meal at next-door Glowbal or
a prelude to a long evening’s cuddle
in the low-slung loveseats. At Elixir
(50 Davie St.; & 604/642-0577), the
crowd stands upright and is more
uptight (just a tad), unless you catch
them late in the evening, after a full
night of nursing cocktails.
VICTORIA Accommodations
The owner of Spinnaker’s Pub has
gone into the B&B business, opening
Spinnaker’s Guest House (308
Catherine St.; & 877/838-2739 or
250/384-2739) in a heritage house just
up the street from his long-running
brewpub. Rooms here feature queen
beds, lovely furnishings, in-room
Jacuzzis, fireplaces, high ceilings, and
lots of natural light—all for an excellent price.
The other big news in Victoria
accommodations is the ongoing
upgrade of Dashwood Manor
(1 Cook St.; & 800/667-5517 or
250/385-5517). Once more than a
little past its prime, this lovely old
mock-Tudor manor now features new
mattresses on the beds and new tile in
place of the old linoleum in the kitchenettes. Stodgy old British bathrooms
have been updated with new tile and
fixtures, including deep-jetted tubs.
Several of the rooms now also have
large luxurious Jacuzzis.
Dining The best new Victoria
dining option is, without doubt,
Brasserie L’Ecole (1715 Government
St.; & 250/475-6262), the brainchild
of long-time Victoria chef Sean Brenner. Top-end French in the middle of
Chinatown may seem a bit of a stretch,
but it all seems to make sense when
you step inside this small and pleasantly French room and realize that
what’s on offer is not high-end Parisian
but simple country French cooking.
Nightlife The best nightspot to
arrive in Victoria in a few years is The
Upstairs Lounge (15 Bastion Sq.;
& 250/385-5483). Victoria’s new
hotspot for live music has space and
good sightlines and a selection of
pretty Victoria people who come for
touring bands.
SIDE TRIPS Whistler Open
under a year, the Alpine Chalet
Whistler (3012 Alpine Crescent;
& 800/736-9967 or 604/935-3003)
was built to the exacting specifications
of a Czech couple who have taken up a
second career as innkeepers. The common room is a dream, with comfy
chairs and a big fireplace. The adjoining dining area is flooded with natural
light from the skylights. Breakfasts are
top-quality feasts.
Ucluelet, Tofino & Pacific Rim
National Park Out on the Pacific
Coast, the The Wickaninnish Inn
(Osprey Lane at Chesterman Beach;
& 800/333-4604) has had such success with its combination of summer
beach walks and winter storm watching that it’s virtually doubling in size.
Careful attention is being paid, however, to ensure the new complex
blends in as seamlessly with the wild
west coast as the old.
2 WHAT’S NEW
02 542699 WN.qxd 11/14/03 9:40 AM Page 2
The Best of Vancouver
& Victoria
Vancouverites aren’t much given to introspection—too much time spent
outdoors—so it’s perhaps a bit unfair to expect it of visitors. But if you really
want to understand Vancouver, stand at the edge of the Inner Harbour (the
Canada Place pavilion makes a good vantage point) and look up past the floatplanes taking off over Stanley Park, around the container terminals, over the
tony waterfront high-rises, and then up the steep green slopes of the North
Shore mountains to the twin snowy peaks of the Lions. What you’ve seen—90%
of it anyway—is the result of a collaboration, unique in history, between God
and the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR).
It was the Almighty—or Mother Nature (depending on your point of
view)—who raised the Coast Range and then sent a glacier slicing along its foot,
simultaneously carving out a deep trench and piling up a tall moraine of rock
and sand. When the ice retreated, water from the Pacific flowed in and the
moraine became a peninsula, flanked on one side by a deep natural harbor and
on the other by a river of glacial meltwater.
Some 10,000 years later, a CPR surveyor came by, took in the peninsula, the
harbor, and the river, and decided he’d found the perfect spot for the railway’s
new Pacific terminus. He kept it quiet, as smart railway men tended to do, until
the company had bought up most of the land around town. Then the railway
moved in, set up shop, and the city of Vancouver was born.
Working indoors, Vancouverites have all fallen in love with the outside:
mountain biking, windsurfing, kayaking, rock climbing, parasailing, snowboarding, and back-country skiing, plus skiing-kayaking, mountain bikingsnowboarding, and snowshoeing-paragliding.
The rest of the world has taken notice of the blessed life people in these parts
lead. Outside magazine voted it one of the 10 best cities in the world to live in.
It’s also one of the 10 best to visit, according to Condé Nast Traveler. The World
Council of Cities ranked it second only to Geneva for quality of life. And in
2003, the IOC awarded Vancouver the right to host the 2010 Olympic Winter
Games. Heady stuff, particularly for a spot that less than 20 years ago was routinely derided as the world’s biggest mill town.
Eighty-some kilometers (50 miles) across the Strait of Georgia on Vancouver
Island, Victoria had for years marketed itself quite successfully as a little bit of
England on the North American continent. So successful was the sales job, Victorians soon began to believe it themselves. They began growing elaborate rose
gardens, which flourished in the mild Pacific climate, and they cultivated a taste
for afternoon tea with jam and scones.
For decades, this continued, until soon it was discovered that not many
shared a taste for English cooking, so Victorian restaurants branched out into
seafood, ethnic, and fusion. And lately, as visitors have shown more interest in
1
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4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF VANCOUVER & VICTORIA
exploring the natural world, Victoria has quietly added whale-watching and
mountain-biking trips to its traditional London-style double-decker bus tours.
The result, at the dawn of the new millennium, is that Victoria is the only city
in the world where you can zoom out on a Zodiac in the morning to see a pod
of killer whales, and make it back in time for a lovely afternoon tea.
1 Frommer’s Favorite Vancouver Experiences
• Watching the Fireworks Explode
over English Bay: Every August
during the July/August Celebration of Light, three international
fireworks companies compete by
launching their best displays over
English Bay. As many as 500,000
spectators cram the beaches around
English Bay, while those with
boats sail out to watch from the
water. See p. 26.
• Enjoying the F-F-F Festivals:
The Folk, the Fringe, and the
Film, to be precise. The Folkfest
brings folk and world-beat musicians to a waterfront stage in Jericho Park. The setting’s gorgeous,
the music’s great, and the crowd is
something else. Far more urban is
the Fringe, a festival of new and
original plays that takes place on
artsy Granville Island. The plays
are wonderfully inventive. Better
yet, they’re short and cheap so you
can see a lot of them. In late September, the films of the world
come to Vancouver. Serious
filmies buy a pass and see all 500
flicks (or as many as they can
before their eyeballs fall out). See
chapter 2.
• Exploring Chinatown: Fishmongers call out their wares before a
shop filled with crabs, eels, geoducks, and bullfrogs, while farther
down the street elderly Chinese
women haggle over produce as
their husbands hunt for deer
antler or dried sea horse at a traditional Chinese apothecary. And
when you’re tired of looking and
listening, head inside to any one
of a dozen restaurants to sample
succulent Cantonese cooking. See
chapters 5 and 7.
• Strolling the Stanley Park
Seawall: Or jogging, running,
blading, biking, skating, riding—
whatever your favorite mode of
transport is, use it, but by all
means get out there. See p. 132.
• Visiting the Vancouver Aquarium: It’s a Jacques Cousteau special, live and right there in front
of you. The Vancouver Aquarium
does an extremely good job showing whole ecosystems. Fittingly
enough, the aquarium has an
excellent display on the Pacific
Northwest, plus sea otters (cuter
than they have any right to be),
beluga whales, sea lions, and a
Pacific white-sided dolphin. See
p. 104.
• Kayaking on Indian Arm: Vancouver is one of the few cities on
the edge of a great wilderness, and
one of the best ways to get there
quickly is kayaking on the gorgeous Indian Arm. Rent a kayak
or go with a company—they may
even serve you a gourmet meal of
barbecued salmon. See p. 129.
• Strolling the Beach: It doesn’t
matter which beach, there’s one
for every taste. Wreck Beach
below UBC is for nudists, Spanish
Banks is for dog walkers, Jericho
Beach is for volleyballers, Kitsilano Beach is for serious suntanning, and English Bay Beach is
for serious people-watching. See
chapter 6.
• Picnicking at the Lighthouse:
Everyone has their favorite picnic
spot—one of the beaches or up on
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the mountains. Ours is Lighthouse Park on the North Shore.
Not only do you get to look back
over at Vancouver, but also, the
walk down to the rocky waterline
runs through a pristine, oldgrowth rainforest. See p. 120.
• Hiking the North Shore: The
forests of the North Shore are at
the edge of a great wilderness and
only 20 minutes from the city.
Step into a world of muted light
and soaring cathedral-like spaces
beneath the tree canopy. Great
North Shore trails include the
very busy Grouse Grind, Cypress
Falls Park, and the hike from
Grouse back to Goat Mountain.
(Whatever you do, go prepared.
People die on those trails every
year, cold and lost. A good local
guidebook can give you more
details on trails and tell you what
you need to bring.) See chapter 6.
• Exploring UBC’s Museum of
Anthropology: The building—by
native son Arthur Erickson—
would be worth a visit in itself,
but this is also one of the best
places in the world to see and
learn about West Coast Native art
and culture. See p. 106.
• Visiting the Library: We’re serious. Vancouver’s new main library
building isn’t so much a book
depository as an urban gathering
place. Outside, you’ll find a permanent crowd of folks hanging
out, playing music, or distributing
political pamphlets. Inside is a
huge glass atrium with little patio
tables and several coffee bars,
where folks sit and chat for hours.
Sometimes they even go and look
at books. See p. 114.
• Mountain Biking the Endowment Lands: One of the best
places to give this sport a try is on
the trails running through the forest by the University of British
Columbia. (The area is officially
called Pacific Spirit Park, but
everyone calls it the Endowment
Lands.) On the east side of town,
the trails on Burnaby Mountain
are equally good, though steep
FROMMER’S FAVORITE VANCOUVER EXPERIENCES 5
The Best Websites for Vancouver & Victoria
• Entertainment Info (www.ticketstonight.ca): This site is a great
place to turn to for half price night-of tickets and general entertainment information in the Vancouver area.
• Tourism B.C. (www.hellobc.com): The official site of the provincial
government tourism agency, this site provides good information on
attractions, as well as higher-end accommodations.
• Tourism Vancouver (www.tourismvancouver.com): The official city
tourism agency site provides a great overview of attractions, including an excellent calendar of events, plus a few last minute deals on
accommodations.
• Tourism Victoria (www.tourismvictoria.com): Victoria’s official
tourism site functions much the same as Vancouver’s, with up-todate, comprehensive information about what to do and see around
the city.
• Whistler & Blackcomb Resorts (www.whistler.net): This site offers a
particularly helpful overview of activities and accommodations
options available at North America’s premier ski resort.
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6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF VANCOUVER & VICTORIA
N
0 75 mi
0 75 km
Lund
Powell
River
Comox
Port
Hardy
Fraser Lake
Houston
Kitimat
Bella Coola
Bella Bella
Masset
Saltery
Bay
Tofino
Ucluelet
Terrace
Port Edward
Hazelton
Merritt
Monte
Creek
Salmon Arm
Clearwater
Hope
Kamloops
Smithers
Campbell
River
Yellowhead Hwy.
Prince Rupert
Moresby
Island
ALBERT
BR
A
ITISH
COLUMBIA
Banks
Island
Pitt
Island
Inside
Passage
Princess Royal
Island
Inside
Passage
Queen
Charlotte
Islands
ALASKA
To Banff &
Calgary
VANCOUVER
ISLAND
JASPER NATIONAL
PK.
BOWRON LAKE
PROV. PK.
WELLS GRAY
PROV. PK.
MT. REVELSTOKE
NAT PK.
GLACIER
NAT PK.
GARIBALDI
PROV. PK.
SKAGIT VALLEY
PROV. RE. AREA
MANNING
PROV. PK.
HAKAI PROV. HAKAI PROV.
REC. AREA REC. AREA
TWEEDSMUIR PROV. PK. TWEEDSMUIR PROV. PK.
NAIKOON NAIKOON
PROV. PK. PROV. PK.
HAKAI PROV.
REC. AREA
TWEEDSMUIR PROV. PK.
NAIKOON
PROV. PK.
Murtle
Lake
Columbia C
Reach le a rwater Riv er
PACIFIC
OCEAN
S keena River
Babine Lake
19
20
37
16
16
101
British
Columbia
Vancouver
Victoria
Southern British Columbia
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