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Frommer's Arizona 2004

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by Karl Samson

Arizona

2004

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:

“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”

—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”

—Glamour Magazine

“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”

—Des Moines Sunday Register

“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”

—Knight Ridder Newspapers

About the Author

Karl Samson finds that the sunny winter skies of the Arizona desert are the perfect

antidote to the dreary winters of his Pacific Northwest home. Each winter, he flees

the rain to explore Arizona’s deserts, mountains, cities, and small towns. It is the

state’s unique regional style, Native American cultures, abundance of contemporary

art, and, of course, boundless landscapes that keep him fascinated by Arizona.

Summers find him researching his other books, including Frommer’s Washington,

Frommer’s Oregon, and Frommer’s Seattle & Portland.

Published by:

Wiley Publishing, Inc.

111 River St.

Hoboken, NJ 07030

Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights

reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys￾tem or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photo￾copying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107

or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written

permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate

per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers,

MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for

permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc.,

10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, (317) 572-3447, fax (317)

572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected].

Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of

John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered

trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the

property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with

any product or vendor mentioned in this book.

ISBN 0-7645-3887-X

ISSN 1534-2123

Editor: Paul Prince

Production Editor: Suzanna R. Thompson

Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl

Photo Editor: Richard Fox

Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services

Front cover photo: Hiking in Grand Canyon National Park

Back cover photo: Kayaking in Emerald Canyon, Grand Canyon National Park

For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support,

please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974,

outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993 or fax 317-572-4002.

Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that

appears in print may not be available in electronic formats.

Manufactured in the United States of America

54321

1 The Best Places to Commune

with Cacti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

2 The Best Active Vacations . . . . . .4

3 The Best Day Hikes &

Nature Walks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

4 The Best Scenic Drives . . . . . . . .8

5 The Best Golf Courses . . . . . . . .9

6 The Best Bird-Watching Spots . .10

7 The Best Offbeat Travel

Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

8 The Best Family Experiences . . .11

9 The Best Family Vacations . . . . .11

10 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . .12

11 The Best Places to Discover

the Old West . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

12 The Best Places to See

Indian Ruins . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

13 The Best Luxury Hotels &

Resorts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

14 The Best Family Resorts . . . . . .15

15 The Best Hotels for

Old Arizona Character . . . . . . . .15

16 The Best B&Bs . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

17 The Best Swimming Pools . . . . .17

18 The Best Places to Savor

Southwest Flavors . . . . . . . . . .18

Contents

List of Maps vi

What’s New in Arizona 1

1 The Best of Arizona 4

1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .19

2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .20

Destination: Arizona—

Red Alert Checklist . . . . . . . . . .21

3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Arizona Calendar of Events . . . .24

5 Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

6 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . .28

7 Specialized Travel Resources . . .29

8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .32

Frommers.com: The Complete

Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . .33

9 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .33

Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . .34

10 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

11 Escorted Tours, Package Deals &

Special-Interest Vacations . . . . . .38

12 The Active Vacation Planner . . .40

Hot Links . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

13 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .46

14 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .48

15 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .49

16 Recommended Reading . . . . . .50

Fast Facts: Arizona . . . . . . . . . .52

2 Planning Your Trip to Arizona 19

1 Preparing for Your Trip . . . . . . .54

2 Getting to the U.S. . . . . . . . . . .60

3 Getting Around the U.S. . . . . . .61

Fast Facts: For the International

Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62

3 For International Visitors 54

iv CONTENTS

4 Phoenix, Scottsdale & the Valley of the Sun 67

1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68

Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . .73

2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .74

Fast Facts: Phoenix . . . . . . . . . .76

3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .77

4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . .96

Family-Friendly Restaurants . . .109

5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . .115

Frommer’s Favorite

Phoenix Experiences . . . . . . . .123

6 Organized Tours

& Excursions . . . . . . . . . . . . .127

7 Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . . .129

8 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .135

9 Day Spas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138

10 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139

11 Phoenix After Dark . . . . . . . . .145

12 A Side Trip from Phoenix:

the Apache Trail . . . . . . . . . . .152

13 En Route to Tucson . . . . . . . . .154

14 En Route to Northern

Arizona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156

1 Wickenburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158

2 Prescott . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164

3 Jerome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171

4 The Verde Valley . . . . . . . . . . .174

5 Sedona & Oak Creek

Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179

Vortex Power . . . . . . . . . . . . .183

The High Cost of

Red-Rock Views . . . . . . . . . . .185

5 Central Arizona 157

1 Flagstaff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203

2 Williams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .215

3 The Grand Canyon

South Rim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218

Fast Facts:

The Grand Canyon . . . . . . . . .223

4 South Rim Alternatives:

Havasu Canyon & Grand Canyon

West . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .243

5 The Grand Canyon

North Rim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247

6 The Grand Canyon & Northern Arizona 203

1 Winslow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .256

2 The Hopi Reservation . . . . . . .258

A Native American

Crafts Primer . . . . . . . . . . . . .264

3 The Petrified Forest &

Painted Desert . . . . . . . . . . . .266

4 The Window Rock &

Ganado Areas . . . . . . . . . . . .269

5 Canyon de Chelly

National Monument . . . . . . . .272

Fred Harvey & His Girls . . . . . .275

6 Navajo National Monument . . .277

7 Monument Valley Navajo

Tribal Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .278

8 Lake Powell & Page . . . . . . . .281

The Four Corners Region:

7 Land of the Hopi & Navajo 253

CONTENTS v

1 Payson & the Mogollon

Rim Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290

2 Pinetop-Lakeside . . . . . . . . . .294

The Rodeo-Chediski Fire . . . . .295

3 Greer & Sunrise Park . . . . . . .298

4 Springerville & Eagar . . . . . . .302

5 The Coronado Trail . . . . . . . . .305

8 Eastern Arizona’s High Country 290

1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .308

Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .312

2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .312

Fast Facts: Tucson . . . . . . . . .314

3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .315

Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . .321

4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .329

North-of-the-Border

Margaritaville . . . . . . . . . . . . .334

Family-Friendly Restaurants . . .342

5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . .344

Frommer’s Favorite

Tucson Experiences . . . . . . . .355

The Shrine That Stopped

a Freeway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .356

Walking Tour: Downtown

Historic Districts . . . . . . . . . . .358

6 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .362

7 Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . . .362

8 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .367

9 Day Spas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .367

10 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .368

11 Tucson After Dark . . . . . . . . . .374

9 Tucson 307

1 Organ Pipe Cactus

National Monument . . . . . . . .381

2 Tubac & Buenos Aires

National Wildlife Refuge . . . . .382

Starry, Starry Nights . . . . . . . .389

3 Nogales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .390

4 Patagonia & Sonoita . . . . . . . .391

5 Sierra Vista & the

San Pedro Valley . . . . . . . . . . .395

6 Tombstone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .401

7 Bisbee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .405

8 Exploring the Rest

of Cochise County . . . . . . . . .409

10 Southern Arizona 380

1 Kingman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .420

2 Lake Mead National

Recreation Area . . . . . . . . . . .423

Get Your Kicks on Route 66 . . .424

3 Bullhead City &

Laughlin, Nevada . . . . . . . . . .428

4 Lake Havasu &

the London Bridge . . . . . . . . .431

Canoeing the Colorado . . . . . .433

5 Yuma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .439

11 Western Arizona 418

List of Maps

Arizona 6

Phoenix, Scottsdale & the Valley of

the Sun 70

Phoenix, Scottsdale & the Valley of

the Sun Accommodations 78

Phoenix, Scottsdale & the Valley of

the Sun Dining 98

Phoenix, Scottsdale & the Valley of

the Sun Attractions 116

Central Arizona 159

Sedona & Vicinity 181

The Grand Canyon &

Northern Arizona 205

Flagstaff 207

Grand Canyon South Rim 225

The Four Corners Region 255

Eastern Arizona’s

High Country 291

Tucson at a Glance 310

Tucson Accommodations 316

Tucson Dining 330

Tucson Attractions 346

Walking Tour: Downtown

Historic Districts 359

Southern Arizona 383

Western Arizona 419

Index 455

vi CONTENTS

1 The Natural Environment . . . . .445

Arizona: Hollywood

Back Lot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .446

2 Arizona Today . . . . . . . . . . . .447

3 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .449

Appendix: Arizona in Depth 444

An Invitation to the Reader

In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,

shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share

the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed

with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:

Frommer’s Arizona 2004

Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030

An Additional Note

Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is

especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma￾tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held

responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,

however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a

close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

Other Great Guides for Your Trip:

Frommer’s Grand Canyon National Park

Frommer’s Family Vacations in the National Parks

Frommer’s National Parks of the American West

Frommer’s American Southwest

Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations

Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,

value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state,

and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices

and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec￾ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and

regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star

(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).

In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you

to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from

tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips

more fun

Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family

Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa

DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

Frommers.com

Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com

for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,

we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At

Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car

rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At

Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:

• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks

• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways

• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends

• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions

Value

Tips

Overrated

Moments

Kids

Finds

Finds

What’s New in Arizona

Despite the sluggish economy and

general reluctance on the part of many

people to travel, Arizona has remained

a very popular vacation destination.

Sure there have been the inevitable

closings, but the state has also bucked

economic trends by opening three

huge new mega-resorts in the Phoenix

area. Here are some of the highlights

on the Arizona travel scene.

PHOENIX, SCOTTSDALE & THE

VALLEY OF THE SUN Although

the Phoenix area’s three new resorts are

for the most part geared toward con￾ference business, they all have plenty

of great amenities for vacationers.

The JW Marriott Desert Ridge

Resort & Spa, 5350 E. Marriott

Blvd., Phoenix (& 800/835-6206;

www.desertridgeresort.com), in north

Phoenix, is the largest of the three new

resorts and has a huge pool area and

several good restaurants.

The Westin Kierland Resort &

Spa, 6902 E. Greenway Pkwy., Scotts￾dale (& 800/WESTIN-1; www.westin.

com/kierlandresort), goes out of its way

to reflect the essence of Arizona and is

our favorite of the three. The tubing

“river” and adult pool by the spa make

this a great choice for both families and

couples. It’s also adjacent to the Kier￾land Commons shopping center, which

has some excellent restaurants.

The Sheraton Wild Horse Pass

Resort, 5594 W. Wild Horse Bass

Blvd., Phoenix (& 866/837-4156;

www.sheraton.com/wildhorsepass), is

located on an Indian reservation south

of Phoenix and has a long, winding

artificial river leading up to the resort.

The spa and river-like swimming pool

are the best features here.

However, if it’s a wildly entertaining

water park your family is looking for

in its next vacation destination, then

book a room at the Pointe South

Mountain Resort, 7777 S. Pointe

Pkwy., Phoenix (& 877/800-4888;

www.pointesouthmtn.com), which

now boasts the biggest and best water

park at any resort in Arizona.

On the other hand, if you and your

significant other are looking for a

romantic getaway where you can

enjoy a few spa treatments, then check

in to the deliciously romantic Royal

Palms Resort and Spa, 5200 E.

Camelback Rd., Phoenix (& 800/

672-6011; www.royalpalmsresortand

spa.com), which last year added a small

spa. This boutique resort was once the

winter home of Cunard Steamship

executive Delos Cooke.

Make a reservation at the Wrigley

Mansion Club, 2501 E. Telawa Trail.

(& 602/955-4079 or 602/553-7387;

www.wrigleymansionclub.com), and

you can dine in the former winter home

of chewing gum magnate William

Wrigley Jr. Although the historic home

is now owned by Geordie Hormel, you

won’t find Spam on the menu.

Fire eaters take note: Under pressure

from pepperheads, we have included

in this edition Los Dos Molinos,

8646 S. Central Ave. (& 602/243-

9113), Phoenix’s famous purveyor of

New Mexican–style food for people

who think Mexican food is never hot

enough. To prove that New Mexican

food does not have to be incendiary,

we have also included the Blue Adobe

Grille, 144 N. Country Club Dr.,

Mesa (& 480/962-1000), which serves

deliciously complex dishes that don’t

come with a fire extinguisher.

Of course, we all know that fried

dough is bad for us, but aren’t vacations

all about indulging in a few guilty

pleasures. At the Fry Bread House,

4140 N. Seventh Ave. (& 602/351-

2345), you can sample Indian tacos,

which are made with big slabs of, you

guessed it, fry bread. These hefty meals

are a mainstay on reservations all across

Arizona, but those served here in

Phoenix are some of the very best.

The Valley of the Sun lost a couple

of its more unusual museums over the

past year. The Fleischer Museum,

which specialized in works from the

California School of American Impres￾sionism, has closed its doors. Also, the

Champlin Fighter Museum has

moved its extensive collection of fighter

planes to Seattle. To make up for these

losses, we’ve added several other inter￾esting little museums. On the campus

of Arizona State University, you can

space out at the Center for Meteorite

Studies, Bateman Physical Sciences

Center, Palm Walk and University

Drive (& 480/965-6511), or get fired

up at the Ceramics Research Center,

which is affiliated with (and across the

street from) the ASU Art Museum at

Nelson Fine Arts Center, 10th Street

and Mill Avenue, Tempe (& 480/

965-2787) There are often interesting

art exhibits at the Schemer Art Center,

5005 E. Camelback Rd. (& 602/262-

4727), which is near The Phoenician

resort. Also, if you’re shopping in Old

Town Scottsdale, be sure to wander

through the Scottsdale Mall (a park,

not a shopping center) to see Robert

Indiana’s LOVE statue.

If too many dinners out have you

thinking you should get some exercise,

join the fitness fanatics on the trail at

north Scottsdale’s recently opened

Pinnacle Peak Park, 26802 N.

102nd Way (& 480/312-7955),

which preserves 150 acres of Sonoran

Desert. You can do a 3.5-mile out￾and-back hike across the park’s name￾sake mountain.

The Arizona Cardinals NFL foot￾ball team is finally getting its new

stadium, which is currently under con￾struction in the west valley city of

Glendale. Until it’s ready in 2006, the

Cardinals will continue to play at Ari￾zona State University’s Sun Devil Sta￾dium. During baseball’s spring training

season, you can now catch both the

Kansas City Royals and the Texas

Rangers at the west valley’s Surprise

Recreation Campus, 1580 N. Bullard

Ave., Surprise (& 623/594-5600).

See chapter 4 for more information.

CENTRAL ARIZONA In Sedona,

L’Auberge de Sedona, 301 L’Auberge

Lane, Sedona & 800/272-6777; www.

lauberge.com), has given all its rooms a

total makeover—gone is the chintz and

lace. This boutique resort now has

rooms as beautiful as the setting on the

banks of Oak Creek.

However, the biggest news in Sedona

is the opening of El Portal Sedona, 95

Portal Lane, Sedona (& 800/313-

0017; www.innsedona.com), a 12-

room bed-and-breakfast inn built of

hand-formed adobe blocks. The build￾ing is a labor of love for its owner.

See chapter 5 for details.

THE GRAND CANYON &

NORTHERN ARIZONA In

Flagstaff, Josephine’s, 503 N.

Humphrey’s St. (& 928/779-3400),

is now serving excellent food in a his￾toric Craftsman bungalow.

Despite ongoing traffic congestion

problems at the Grand Canyon, it got a

little bit more difficult to get around

the national park without a car this past

year. The Grand Canyon Eco-Shuttle,

which used to operate between the

community of Tusayan and Grand

2 WHAT’S NEW

Canyon Village, is no longer running.

You’ll now have to call a taxi.

See chapter 6 for details.

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

Due to security concerns, tours down

into Glen Canyon Dam no longer

operate when the nation is on Code

Orange alert level. Also, with the lake’s

water level down almost 100 feet, tour

boats can no longer cruise right up to

Rainbow Bridge; it’s now necessary

to walk a mile from where the boat

moors if you want to stand in the

shadow of the largest natural bridge in

the world.

See chapter 7 for more information.

EASTERN ARIZONA’S HIGH

COUNTRY In the summer of

2002, you probably heard plenty

about the huge Rodeo-Chediski forest

fire that raged through the pine forests

of eastern Arizona. Although the mas￾sive fire leveled hundreds of thousands

of acres of forest and destroyed homes

throughout the region, it never made

it to the prime tourist area’s of Pine￾top-Lakeside, Greer or the Coronado

Trail. So if you’re planning on explor￾ing this region of the state, which is

little visited by out-of-staters, there’s

no need to worry about hiking amid

charcoal and ash.

See chapter 8 for more information.

TUCSON The former Sheraton El

Conquistador Resort & Country Club

is now the Hilton Tucson El Con￾quistador Golf & Tennis Resort,

10000 N. Oracle Rd. (& 800/325-

7832; www.hiltonelconquistador.com),

and is adding a splashy new water play￾ground, complete with water slide.

Two noteworthy Tucson restau￾rants—the top-end Stone Ashley and

the ever-popular Presidio Grill—

served their last meals this past year.

However, frugal travelers should take

note of some new restaurants listed in

this book this year. Fans of economical

and authentic Japanese food should be

sure to search out Yoshimatsu Healthy

Japanese Food & Café, 2745 N.

Campbell Ave. (& 520/320-1574). If

it’s Cajun food you prefer, head to

Nonie New Orleans Bistro, 2526 E.

Grant Rd. (& 520/319-1965). The

owners of Tucson’s popular Bistro Zin

and Wildflower restaurants have also

now opened a casual pizza place called

Sauce, Casas Adobes Plaza, 7117 N.

Oracle Rd. (& 520/297-8575).

History buffs and anyone else curi￾ous about the history of Tucson will

want to visit the new Arizona Histori￾cal Society Museum Downtown, 140

N. Stone Ave. (& 520/770-1473). If

you or your kids are crazy for trains

and you happen to be in town on the

right day of the month, you can visit

the Gadsden-Pacific Toy Train Oper￾ating Museum, 3975 N. Miller Ave.

(& 520/888-2222).

See chapter 9 for more information.

SOUTHERN ARIZONA If Old

Tucson Studios was just too touristy

for you but you still want to swagger

down the streets of a Hollywood cow￾town at high noon, then head to Ben￾son and Mescal (& 520/883-0100), a

movie set that is operated by Old Tuc￾son Studios. This place sees only a

handful of visitors each week.

See chapter 10 for details.

WESTERN ARIZONA How about

a little dinner theater in the shadow of

the London Bridge? At the London

Arms Pub & Playhouse, 422 English

Village (& 928/855-8782), you can

catch live theater and savor some of

the best food in Lake Havasu City.

See chapter 11 for details.

WHAT’S NEW 3

The Best of Arizona

Planning a trip to a state as large and diverse as Arizona involves a lot of deci￾sion making (other than which golf clubs to take), so in this chapter we’ve tried

to give you some direction. Below we’ve chosen what we feel is the very best the

state has to offer—the places and experiences you won’t want to miss. Although

sights and activities listed here are written up in more detail elsewhere in this

book, this chapter should help get you started planning your trip.

1 The Best Places to Commune with Cacti

1

• Desert Botanical Garden

(Phoenix): There’s no better place

in the state to learn about the

plants of Arizona’s Sonoran Desert

and the many other deserts of the

world. Displays at this Phoenix

botanical garden explain plant

adaptations and how indigenous

tribes once used many of this

region’s wild plants. See p. 115.

• Boyce Thompson Arboretum

(east of Phoenix): Located just out￾side the town of Superior, this was

the nation’s first botanical garden

established in a desert environ￾ment. It’s set in a small canyon

framed by cliffs, with desert plant￾ings from all over the world—a

fascinating place for an educational

stroll in the desert. See p. 154.

• Arizona–Sonora Desert Museum

(Tucson): The name is mislead￾ing—this is actually more a zoo

and botanical garden than a

museum. Naturalistic settings

house dozens of species of desert

animals, including a number of

critters you wouldn’t want to meet

in the wild (rattlesnakes, tarantulas,

scorpions, black widows, and Gila

monsters). See p. 344.

• Saguaro National Park (Tucson):

Lying both east and west of Tuc￾son, this park preserves “forests” of

saguaro cacti and is the very

essence of the desert as so many

people imagine it. You can hike it,

bike it, or drive it. See p. 348.

• Tohono Chul Park (Tucson):

Although this park is not all that

large, it packs a lot of desert

scenery into its modest space.

Impressive plantings of cacti are

the star attractions, but there are

also good wildflower displays in

the spring. See p. 356.

• Organ Pipe Cactus National

Monument (west of Tucson): The

organ pipe cactus is a smaller,

multi-trunked relative of the giant

saguaro and lives only along the

Mexican border about 100 miles

west of Tucson. This remote

national monument has hiking

trails, scenic drives, even a large

natural spring. See p. 381.

2 The Best Active Vacations

• Rafting the Grand Canyon:

Whether you go for 3 days or 2

weeks, no other active vacation in

the state comes even remotely

close to matching the excitement

of a raft trip through the Grand

Canyon. Sure, the river is crowded

with groups in the summer, but

the grandeur of the canyon is

more than enough to make up for

it. See chapter 6.

• Hiking into the Grand Canyon

or Havasu Canyon: Not for the

unfit or the faint of heart, a hike

down into the Grand Canyon or

Havasu Canyon is a journey

through millions of years set in

stone. This trip takes plenty of

advance planning and requires

some very strenuous hiking. With

both a campground and a lodge at

the bottom of each canyon, you

can choose to make this trip with

either a fully loaded backpack or

just a light daypack. See chapter 6.

• Riding the Range at a Guest

Ranch: Yes, there are still cowboys

in Arizona. They ride ranges all

over the state, and so can you if

you book a stay at one of the

many guest ranches (once known

as dude ranches). You might even

get to drive some cattle down the

trail. After a long or short day in

the saddle, you can soak in a hot

tub, go for a swim, or play a game

of tennis before chowing down.

See chapters 5, 9, and 10.

• Staying at a Golf or Tennis

Resort: If horseback riding and

cowboy cookouts aren’t your

thing, how about as much golf or

tennis as you can play? The

Phoenix/Scottsdale area has the

greatest concentration of resorts in

the country, and Sedona and Tuc￾son add many more options to the

mix. There’s something very satis￾fying about swinging a racquet or

club with the state’s spectacular

scenery in the background, and

the climate means you can do it

practically year-round. See chap￾ters 4, 5, and 9.

• Mountain Biking in Sedona:

Forget Moab—too many other

hard-core mountain bikers.

Among the red rocks of Sedona,

you can pedal through awesome

scenery on some of the most

memorable single-track trails in

the Southwest. There’s even plenty

of slickrock for that Canyonlands

experience. See p. 188.

• Bird-Watching in Southeastern

Arizona: As avid bird-watchers,

we know that this isn’t the most

active of sports, but a birder can

get in a bit of walking when it’s

necessary (like, maybe to get to

the nesting tree of an elegant tro￾gon). The southeast corner of the

state is one of the best birding

regions in the entire country. See

chapter 10.

THE BEST DAY HIKES & NATURE WALKS 5

3 The Best Day Hikes & Nature Walks

• Camelback Mountain (Phoenix):

For many Phoenicians, the trail to

the top of Camelback Mountain is

a ritual, a Phoenix institution.

Sure, there are those who make

this a casual but strenuous hike,

but many more turn it into a seri￾ous workout by jogging to the top

and back down. We prefer a more

leisurely approach so we can enjoy

the views. See p. 82.

• Picacho Peak State Park (south

of Casa Grande): The hike up this

central Arizona landmark is short

but strenuous, and from the top

there are superb views out over the

desert. The best time of year to

make the hike is in spring, when

the peak comes alive with wild￾flowers. Picacho Peak is between

Casa Grande and Tucson just off

I-10. See p. 155.

• The West Fork of Oak Creek

Trail (outside Sedona): The West

Fork of Oak Creek is a tiny stream

that meanders for miles in a narrow

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF ARIZONA

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