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Physical testing of textiles
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Mô tả chi tiết
Physical testing
of textiles
B P Saville
The Textile Institute
CRC Press
Boca Raton Boston New York Washington, DC
WOODHEA D PUBLISHIN G LIMITED
Cambridge England
Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute
Abington Hall, Abington
Cambridge CBl 6AH
England
Published in North and South America by CRC Press LLC
2000 Corporate Blvd, NW
Boca Raton FL 33431
USA
First published
1999, Woodhead Publishing Ltd and CRC Press LLC
© 1999, Woodhead Publishing Ltd
The author has asserted his moral rights.
Conditions of sale
This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded
sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated.
Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but
the author and the publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all
materials. Neither the author nor the publishers, nor anyone else associated with
this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book.
Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or
by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming, and
recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publishers.
The consent of Woodhead Publishing Ltd and CRC Press LLC does not extend
to copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for
resale. Specific permission must be obtained in writing from Woodhead Publishing
Ltd or CRC Press LLC for such copying.
Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered
trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation, without intent to
infringe.
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
Woodhead Publishing ISBN 1 85573 367 6
CRC Press ISBN 0-8493-0568-3
CRC Press order number: WP 0568
Cover design by The ColourStudio
Typeset by Best-set Typesetter Ltd., Hong Kong
Printed by TJ International, Cornwall, England
Preface
This book arose out of a need, when teaching textile testing at Huddersfield
University, for a modern volume on the subject to which students could be
referred. The approach to the subject and the topics covered are ones that
have been developed over the years in the textile department at
Huddersfield. This institution has had, until now, a long history of teaching
part-time students on day-release from their employment in the local textile
industry. Because of this the testing section developed close links with the
industry and thus became aware of the problems and requirements in this
area. Therefore the content of the courses which were taught was developed over the years by a succession of workers in this area. This book is
then a distillation of this collective wisdom and hopefully a further development of it. In particular I would like to mention my former colleagues
Carol Ramsden, Philip Townhill and Christine Wilkinson, all of whom could
have written this book but declined the chore.
The book is aimed both at students intending to join the textile industry
and also at personnel who are already employed there in the areas of testing
and quality assurance. Because modern industry produces goods, be they
garments, fabrics, yarns or fibres, to specifications, the emphasis throughout
this book is on standard and reproducible tests. The reason for this is that
in order to specify a property it is also necessary at the same time to specify
the method of test. Many of the tests carried out on textile materials are
intended to measure the same property but because of their different
approach or the type of equipment used can give different results.
It is important when carrying out any tests to consult an up-to-date copy
of the relevant standard. This is because the actual standard contains a
wealth of detail which it is not possible to cover in a book of this nature
and furthermore national and international standards are constantly being
changed and updated.
B P Saville
The author would like to thank Prof. JWS Hearle for reading through the
manuscript and making many helpful suggestions.
Acknowledgements
Physical testing
of textiles
B P Saville
The Textile Institute
CRC Press
Boca Raton Boston New York Washington, DC
WOODHEA D PUBLISHIN G LIMITED
Cambridge England
Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute
Abington Hall, Abington
Cambridge CBl 6AH
England
Published in North and South America by CRC Press LLC
2000 Corporate Blvd, NW
Boca Raton FL 33431
USA
First published
1999, Woodhead Publishing Ltd and CRC Press LLC
© 1999, Woodhead Publishing Ltd
The author has asserted his moral rights.
Conditions of sale
This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded
sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated.
Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but
the author and the publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all
materials. Neither the author nor the publishers, nor anyone else associated with
this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book.
Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or
by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming, and
recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publishers.
The consent of Woodhead Publishing Ltd and CRC Press LLC does not extend
to copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for
resale. Specific permission must be obtained in writing from Woodhead Publishing
Ltd or CRC Press LLC for such copying.
Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered
trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation, without intent to
infringe.
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
Woodhead Publishing ISBN 1 85573 367 6
CRC Press ISBN 0-8493-0568-3
CRC Press order number: WP 0568
Cover design by The ColourStudio
Typeset by Best-set Typesetter Ltd., Hong Kong
Printed by TJ International, Cornwall, England
Preface
This book arose out of a need, when teaching textile testing at Huddersfield
University, for a modern volume on the subject to which students could be
referred. The approach to the subject and the topics covered are ones that
have been developed over the years in the textile department at
Huddersfield. This institution has had, until now, a long history of teaching
part-time students on day-release from their employment in the local textile
industry. Because of this the testing section developed close links with the
industry and thus became aware of the problems and requirements in this
area. Therefore the content of the courses which were taught was developed over the years by a succession of workers in this area. This book is
then a distillation of this collective wisdom and hopefully a further development of it. In particular I would like to mention my former colleagues
Carol Ramsden, Philip Townhill and Christine Wilkinson, all of whom could
have written this book but declined the chore.
The book is aimed both at students intending to join the textile industry
and also at personnel who are already employed there in the areas of testing
and quality assurance. Because modern industry produces goods, be they
garments, fabrics, yarns or fibres, to specifications, the emphasis throughout
this book is on standard and reproducible tests. The reason for this is that
in order to specify a property it is also necessary at the same time to specify
the method of test. Many of the tests carried out on textile materials are
intended to measure the same property but because of their different
approach or the type of equipment used can give different results.
It is important when carrying out any tests to consult an up-to-date copy
of the relevant standard. This is because the actual standard contains a
wealth of detail which it is not possible to cover in a book of this nature
and furthermore national and international standards are constantly being
changed and updated.
B P Saville
The author would like to thank Prof. JWS Hearle for reading through the
manuscript and making many helpful suggestions.
Acknowledgements
v This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation.
Contents
Preface ............................................................................ xiii
Acknowledgements ......................................................... xv
1. Introduction ............................................................. 1
1.1 Reasons for Textile Testing ....................................... 1
1.1.1 Checking Raw Materials ........................... 1
1.1.2 Monitoring Production .............................. 2
1.1.3 Assessing the Final Product ..................... 2
1.1.4 Investigation of Faulty Material ................. 2
1.1.5 Product Development and Research ........ 2
1.2 Standardization of Testing ......................................... 3
1.2.1 Variation in the Material ............................ 3
1.2.2 Variation Caused by the Test Method ....... 3
1.3 Sampling .................................................................... 4
1.3.1 Terms Used in Sampling .......................... 5
1.3.2 Fibre Sampling From Bulk ........................ 6
1.3.3 Fibre Sampling From Combed Slivers,
Rovings and Yarn ..................................... 7
1.3.4 Yarn Sampling .......................................... 11
1.3.5 Fabric Sampling ....................................... 14
1.4 Measurement ............................................................. 15
1.4.1 Statistical Terms ....................................... 16
1.4.2 Determination of Number of Tests ............ 18
1.4.3 Use of Computers .................................... 18
1.4.4 Types of Error .......................................... 20
1.4.5 Sources of Error ....................................... 20
vi Contents
This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation.
1.4.6 Repeatability and Reproducibility ............. 21
1.4.7 Significant Figures .................................... 23
General Reading ................................................................. 24
References .......................................................................... 25
2. Textiles and Moisture ............................................. 26
2.1 Introduction ................................................................. 26
2.2 Effect of Moisture on Physical Properties .................. 26
2.2.1 Dimensional ............................................. 26
2.2.2 Mechanical ............................................... 27
2.2.3 Electrical .................................................. 28
2.3 Atmospheric Moisture ................................................ 29
2.3.1 Vapour Pressure ...................................... 30
2.3.2 Relative Humidity ..................................... 31
2.3.3 Standard Atmosphere .............................. 32
2.3.4 Measurement of Atmospheric
Moisture ................................................... 32
2.4 Regain and Moisture Content .................................... 33
2.4.1 Regain - Humidity Relations of
Textiles ..................................................... 33
2.4.2 Factors Affecting the Regain .................... 35
2.4.3 Methods of Measuring Regain .................. 36
2.5 Correct Invoice Weight ............................................... 40
2.6 Control of Testing Room Atmosphere ....................... 42
References .......................................................................... 43
3. Fibre Dimensions .................................................... 44
3.1 Fibre Fineness ........................................................... 44
3.2 Fineness Measurement ............................................. 45
3.2.1 Gravimetric ............................................... 46
3.2.2 Fibre Fineness by Projection
Microscope ............................................... 48
Contents vii
This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation.
3.2.3 Fibre Fineness by the Airflow Method ...... 50
3.2.4 Cotton Fineness by Airflow ....................... 52
3.2.5 Cotton Maturity ......................................... 53
3.2.6 IIC/Shirley Fineness and Maturity
Tester ....................................................... 55
3.2.7 Optical Fibre Diameter Analyzer ............... 56
3.2.8 Light-Scattering Methods ......................... 56
3.2.9 Vibration Method ...................................... 57
3.2.10 Wool Quality ............................................. 59
3.3 Fibre Length ............................................................... 59
3.3.1 Mean Length ............................................ 60
3.4 Methods of Measurement: Direct Methods ............... 62
3.4.1 WIRA Fibre Length Machine .................... 63
3.5 Methods of Measurement: Tuft Methods ................... 64
3.5.1 Cotton Grading ......................................... 64
3.5.2 Comb Sorter ............................................. 65
3.5.3 The Clamped Tuft Method ........................ 67
3.5.4 Fibrograph ................................................ 69
3.5.5 WIRA Fibre Diagram Machine .................. 69
3.5.6 Almeter ..................................................... 71
3.6 High-Volume Instruments .......................................... 74
General Reading ................................................................. 75
References .......................................................................... 75
4. Yarn Tests ............................................................... 77
4.1 Linear Density ............................................................ 77
4.1.1 Direct System ........................................... 77
4.1.2 Indirect System ........................................ 78
4.1.3 Folded Yarns ............................................ 79
4.1.4 Measuring Linear Density ......................... 80
4.1.5 Linear Density from a Fabric Sample ....... 82
viii Contents
This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation.
4.2 Twist ........................................................................... 85
4.2.1 Level of Twist ........................................... 87
4.2.2 Measuring Twist ....................................... 89
4.3 Yarn Evenness ........................................................... 94
4.3.1 Visual Examination ................................... 94
4.3.2 Cut and Weigh Methods ........................... 94
4.3.3 Uster Evenness Tester ............................. 96
4.3.4 Zweigle G580 ........................................... 101
4.4 Hairiness .................................................................... 104
4.4.1 Shirley Yarn Hairiness Tester ................... 106
4.4.2 Zweigle G565 ........................................... 107
4.4.3 Uster Tester 3 Hairiness Meter
Attachment ............................................... 108
4.5 Yarn Bulk .................................................................... 108
4.5.1 Textured Filament Yarns .......................... 109
4.6 Friction ........................................................................ 110
4.6.1 Coil Friction .............................................. 111
4.6.2 Measuring Yarn Friction ........................... 112
References .......................................................................... 114
5. Strength And Elongation Tests ............................. 115
5.1 Introduction ................................................................. 115
5.2 Definitions ................................................................... 115
5.2.1 Units ......................................................... 115
5.2.2 Breaking Strength; Tensile Strength ......... 116
5.2.3 Stress ....................................................... 116
5.2.4 Specific (Mass) Stress .............................. 116
5.2.5 Tenacity ................................................... 117
5.2.6 Breaking Length ....................................... 117
5.2.7 Elongation ................................................ 118
5.2.8 Strain ....................................................... 118
Contents ix
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5.2.9 Extension Percentage .............................. 118
5.2.10 Gauge Length .......................................... 118
5.3 Force Elongation Curve ............................................. 118
5.3.1 Yield Point ................................................ 119
5.3.2 Modulus ................................................... 122
5.3.3 Work of Rupture ....................................... 125
5.3.4 Time Dependence .................................... 127
5.3.5 Elastic Recovery ...................................... 129
5.4 Factors Affecting Tensile Testing .............................. 132
5.4.1 Type of Testing Machine .......................... 132
5.4.2 Specimen Length ..................................... 134
5.4.3 Rate of Loading and Time to Break .......... 134
5.4.4 Effect of Humidity and Temperature ......... 135
5.4.5 Previous History of the Specimen ............. 136
5.4.6 Clamping Problems .................................. 136
5.5 Fibre Strength ............................................................. 138
5.5.1 Single Fibre Strength ................................ 138
5.5.2 Bundle Strength ....................................... 140
5.6 Yarn Strength ............................................................. 142
5.6.1 Yarn Strength: Single Strand Method ....... 143
5.6.2 Yarn Strength: Skein Method ................... 144
5.7 Fabric Strength ........................................................... 145
5.7.1 Strip Strength ........................................... 145
5.7.2 Grab Test ................................................. 146
5.8 Tear Tests .................................................................. 147
5.8.1 Measuring Tearing Strength ..................... 147
5.8.2 Single Rip Tear Test ................................. 148
5.8.3 Wing Rip Tear Test .................................. 150
5.8.4 Elmendorf Tear Tester ............................. 152
5.9 Bursting Strength ....................................................... 154
5.9.1 Diaphragm Bursting Test .......................... 154
x Contents
This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation.
5.9.2 Ball Bursting Strength ............................... 156
5.10 Stretch and Recovery Properties ............................... 156
5.11 Seam Strength ........................................................... 160
5.11.1 Seam Slippage ......................................... 160
5.11.2 Seam Slippage Tests ............................... 161
5.11.3 Fixed Load Method ................................... 162
5.11.4 Upholstery Seam Slippage ....................... 164
General Reading ................................................................. 165
References .......................................................................... 166
6. Dimensional Stability ............................................. 168
6.1 Introduction ................................................................. 168
6.1.1 Hygral Expansion ..................................... 169
6.1.2 Relaxation Shrinkage ............................... 171
6.1.3 Swelling Shrinkage ................................... 172
6.1.4 Felting Shrinkage ..................................... 173
6.1.5 Weft Knitted Wool Fabrics ........................ 174
6.2 Methods of Measuring Dimensional Stability ............ 174
6.2.1 Marking Out Samples ............................... 174
6.2.2 WIRA Steaming Cylinder .......................... 175
6.2.3 Relaxation Shrinkage ............................... 177
6.2.4 Washable Wool ........................................ 177
6.2.5 Washing Programmes .............................. 180
6.2.6 Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning ....... 181
6.2.7 Dimensional Stability to Dry Heat ............. 181
General Reading ................................................................. 182
References .......................................................................... 182
7. Serviceability ........................................................... 184
7.1 Introduction ................................................................. 184
Contents xi
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7.2 Snagging .................................................................... 185
7.2.1 Mace Snagging Test ................................ 186
7.3 Pilling .......................................................................... 186
7.3.1 Pilling Tests .............................................. 190
7.4 Abrasion Resistance .................................................. 195
7.4.1 Factors Affecting Abrasion
Resistance ............................................... 195
7.4.2 Abrasion Tests ......................................... 196
7.5 Wearer Trials .............................................................. 204
7.5.1 Advantages of Wearer Trials .................... 204
7.5.2 Disadvantages of Wearer Trials ............... 205
7.5.3 Advantages of Laboratory Tests ............... 206
7.5.4 Disadvantages of Laboratory Tests .......... 206
7.5.5 Design of Trials ........................................ 206
References .......................................................................... 207
8. Comfort .................................................................... 209
8.1 Introduction ................................................................. 209
8.2 Thermal Comfort ........................................................ 209
8.2.1 Heat Balance ............................................ 209
8.2.2 Heat Loss ................................................. 210
8.2.3 Air Permeability ........................................ 217
8.2.4 Measurement of Thermal
Conductivity ............................................. 219
8.2.5 Measurement of Water Vapour
Permeability ............................................. 223
8.3 Moisture Transport ..................................................... 227
8.3.1 Wetting ..................................................... 228
8.3.2 Wicking .................................................... 229
8.3.3 Longitudinal Wicking ................................ 230
8.3.4 Wicking Test ............................................. 230