Siêu thị PDFTải ngay đi em, trời tối mất

Thư viện tri thức trực tuyến

Kho tài liệu với 50,000+ tài liệu học thuật

© 2023 Siêu thị PDF - Kho tài liệu học thuật hàng đầu Việt Nam

Physical testing of textiles
PREMIUM
Số trang
332
Kích thước
13.1 MB
Định dạng
PDF
Lượt xem
1357

Physical testing of textiles

Nội dung xem thử

Mô tả chi tiết

Physical testing

of textiles

B P Saville

The Textile Institute

CRC Press

Boca Raton Boston New York Washington, DC

WOODHEA D PUBLISHIN G LIMITED

Cambridge England

Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute

Abington Hall, Abington

Cambridge CBl 6AH

England

Published in North and South America by CRC Press LLC

2000 Corporate Blvd, NW

Boca Raton FL 33431

USA

First published

1999, Woodhead Publishing Ltd and CRC Press LLC

© 1999, Woodhead Publishing Ltd

The author has asserted his moral rights.

Conditions of sale

This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded

sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated.

Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but

the author and the publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all

materials. Neither the author nor the publishers, nor anyone else associated with

this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indi￾rectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book.

Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or

by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming, and

recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without prior per￾mission in writing from the publishers.

The consent of Woodhead Publishing Ltd and CRC Press LLC does not extend

to copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for

resale. Specific permission must be obtained in writing from Woodhead Publishing

Ltd or CRC Press LLC for such copying.

Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered

trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation, without intent to

infringe.

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data

A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.

Woodhead Publishing ISBN 1 85573 367 6

CRC Press ISBN 0-8493-0568-3

CRC Press order number: WP 0568

Cover design by The ColourStudio

Typeset by Best-set Typesetter Ltd., Hong Kong

Printed by TJ International, Cornwall, England

Preface

This book arose out of a need, when teaching textile testing at Huddersfield

University, for a modern volume on the subject to which students could be

referred. The approach to the subject and the topics covered are ones that

have been developed over the years in the textile department at

Huddersfield. This institution has had, until now, a long history of teaching

part-time students on day-release from their employment in the local textile

industry. Because of this the testing section developed close links with the

industry and thus became aware of the problems and requirements in this

area. Therefore the content of the courses which were taught was devel￾oped over the years by a succession of workers in this area. This book is

then a distillation of this collective wisdom and hopefully a further devel￾opment of it. In particular I would like to mention my former colleagues

Carol Ramsden, Philip Townhill and Christine Wilkinson, all of whom could

have written this book but declined the chore.

The book is aimed both at students intending to join the textile industry

and also at personnel who are already employed there in the areas of testing

and quality assurance. Because modern industry produces goods, be they

garments, fabrics, yarns or fibres, to specifications, the emphasis throughout

this book is on standard and reproducible tests. The reason for this is that

in order to specify a property it is also necessary at the same time to specify

the method of test. Many of the tests carried out on textile materials are

intended to measure the same property but because of their different

approach or the type of equipment used can give different results.

It is important when carrying out any tests to consult an up-to-date copy

of the relevant standard. This is because the actual standard contains a

wealth of detail which it is not possible to cover in a book of this nature

and furthermore national and international standards are constantly being

changed and updated.

B P Saville

The author would like to thank Prof. JWS Hearle for reading through the

manuscript and making many helpful suggestions.

Acknowledgements

Physical testing

of textiles

B P Saville

The Textile Institute

CRC Press

Boca Raton Boston New York Washington, DC

WOODHEA D PUBLISHIN G LIMITED

Cambridge England

Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute

Abington Hall, Abington

Cambridge CBl 6AH

England

Published in North and South America by CRC Press LLC

2000 Corporate Blvd, NW

Boca Raton FL 33431

USA

First published

1999, Woodhead Publishing Ltd and CRC Press LLC

© 1999, Woodhead Publishing Ltd

The author has asserted his moral rights.

Conditions of sale

This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded

sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated.

Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but

the author and the publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all

materials. Neither the author nor the publishers, nor anyone else associated with

this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indi￾rectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book.

Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or

by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming, and

recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without prior per￾mission in writing from the publishers.

The consent of Woodhead Publishing Ltd and CRC Press LLC does not extend

to copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for

resale. Specific permission must be obtained in writing from Woodhead Publishing

Ltd or CRC Press LLC for such copying.

Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered

trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation, without intent to

infringe.

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data

A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.

Woodhead Publishing ISBN 1 85573 367 6

CRC Press ISBN 0-8493-0568-3

CRC Press order number: WP 0568

Cover design by The ColourStudio

Typeset by Best-set Typesetter Ltd., Hong Kong

Printed by TJ International, Cornwall, England

Preface

This book arose out of a need, when teaching textile testing at Huddersfield

University, for a modern volume on the subject to which students could be

referred. The approach to the subject and the topics covered are ones that

have been developed over the years in the textile department at

Huddersfield. This institution has had, until now, a long history of teaching

part-time students on day-release from their employment in the local textile

industry. Because of this the testing section developed close links with the

industry and thus became aware of the problems and requirements in this

area. Therefore the content of the courses which were taught was devel￾oped over the years by a succession of workers in this area. This book is

then a distillation of this collective wisdom and hopefully a further devel￾opment of it. In particular I would like to mention my former colleagues

Carol Ramsden, Philip Townhill and Christine Wilkinson, all of whom could

have written this book but declined the chore.

The book is aimed both at students intending to join the textile industry

and also at personnel who are already employed there in the areas of testing

and quality assurance. Because modern industry produces goods, be they

garments, fabrics, yarns or fibres, to specifications, the emphasis throughout

this book is on standard and reproducible tests. The reason for this is that

in order to specify a property it is also necessary at the same time to specify

the method of test. Many of the tests carried out on textile materials are

intended to measure the same property but because of their different

approach or the type of equipment used can give different results.

It is important when carrying out any tests to consult an up-to-date copy

of the relevant standard. This is because the actual standard contains a

wealth of detail which it is not possible to cover in a book of this nature

and furthermore national and international standards are constantly being

changed and updated.

B P Saville

The author would like to thank Prof. JWS Hearle for reading through the

manuscript and making many helpful suggestions.

Acknowledgements

v This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation.

Contents

Preface ............................................................................ xiii

Acknowledgements ......................................................... xv

1. Introduction ............................................................. 1

1.1 Reasons for Textile Testing ....................................... 1

1.1.1 Checking Raw Materials ........................... 1

1.1.2 Monitoring Production .............................. 2

1.1.3 Assessing the Final Product ..................... 2

1.1.4 Investigation of Faulty Material ................. 2

1.1.5 Product Development and Research ........ 2

1.2 Standardization of Testing ......................................... 3

1.2.1 Variation in the Material ............................ 3

1.2.2 Variation Caused by the Test Method ....... 3

1.3 Sampling .................................................................... 4

1.3.1 Terms Used in Sampling .......................... 5

1.3.2 Fibre Sampling From Bulk ........................ 6

1.3.3 Fibre Sampling From Combed Slivers,

Rovings and Yarn ..................................... 7

1.3.4 Yarn Sampling .......................................... 11

1.3.5 Fabric Sampling ....................................... 14

1.4 Measurement ............................................................. 15

1.4.1 Statistical Terms ....................................... 16

1.4.2 Determination of Number of Tests ............ 18

1.4.3 Use of Computers .................................... 18

1.4.4 Types of Error .......................................... 20

1.4.5 Sources of Error ....................................... 20

vi Contents

This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation.

1.4.6 Repeatability and Reproducibility ............. 21

1.4.7 Significant Figures .................................... 23

General Reading ................................................................. 24

References .......................................................................... 25

2. Textiles and Moisture ............................................. 26

2.1 Introduction ................................................................. 26

2.2 Effect of Moisture on Physical Properties .................. 26

2.2.1 Dimensional ............................................. 26

2.2.2 Mechanical ............................................... 27

2.2.3 Electrical .................................................. 28

2.3 Atmospheric Moisture ................................................ 29

2.3.1 Vapour Pressure ...................................... 30

2.3.2 Relative Humidity ..................................... 31

2.3.3 Standard Atmosphere .............................. 32

2.3.4 Measurement of Atmospheric

Moisture ................................................... 32

2.4 Regain and Moisture Content .................................... 33

2.4.1 Regain - Humidity Relations of

Textiles ..................................................... 33

2.4.2 Factors Affecting the Regain .................... 35

2.4.3 Methods of Measuring Regain .................. 36

2.5 Correct Invoice Weight ............................................... 40

2.6 Control of Testing Room Atmosphere ....................... 42

References .......................................................................... 43

3. Fibre Dimensions .................................................... 44

3.1 Fibre Fineness ........................................................... 44

3.2 Fineness Measurement ............................................. 45

3.2.1 Gravimetric ............................................... 46

3.2.2 Fibre Fineness by Projection

Microscope ............................................... 48

Contents vii

This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation.

3.2.3 Fibre Fineness by the Airflow Method ...... 50

3.2.4 Cotton Fineness by Airflow ....................... 52

3.2.5 Cotton Maturity ......................................... 53

3.2.6 IIC/Shirley Fineness and Maturity

Tester ....................................................... 55

3.2.7 Optical Fibre Diameter Analyzer ............... 56

3.2.8 Light-Scattering Methods ......................... 56

3.2.9 Vibration Method ...................................... 57

3.2.10 Wool Quality ............................................. 59

3.3 Fibre Length ............................................................... 59

3.3.1 Mean Length ............................................ 60

3.4 Methods of Measurement: Direct Methods ............... 62

3.4.1 WIRA Fibre Length Machine .................... 63

3.5 Methods of Measurement: Tuft Methods ................... 64

3.5.1 Cotton Grading ......................................... 64

3.5.2 Comb Sorter ............................................. 65

3.5.3 The Clamped Tuft Method ........................ 67

3.5.4 Fibrograph ................................................ 69

3.5.5 WIRA Fibre Diagram Machine .................. 69

3.5.6 Almeter ..................................................... 71

3.6 High-Volume Instruments .......................................... 74

General Reading ................................................................. 75

References .......................................................................... 75

4. Yarn Tests ............................................................... 77

4.1 Linear Density ............................................................ 77

4.1.1 Direct System ........................................... 77

4.1.2 Indirect System ........................................ 78

4.1.3 Folded Yarns ............................................ 79

4.1.4 Measuring Linear Density ......................... 80

4.1.5 Linear Density from a Fabric Sample ....... 82

viii Contents

This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation.

4.2 Twist ........................................................................... 85

4.2.1 Level of Twist ........................................... 87

4.2.2 Measuring Twist ....................................... 89

4.3 Yarn Evenness ........................................................... 94

4.3.1 Visual Examination ................................... 94

4.3.2 Cut and Weigh Methods ........................... 94

4.3.3 Uster Evenness Tester ............................. 96

4.3.4 Zweigle G580 ........................................... 101

4.4 Hairiness .................................................................... 104

4.4.1 Shirley Yarn Hairiness Tester ................... 106

4.4.2 Zweigle G565 ........................................... 107

4.4.3 Uster Tester 3 Hairiness Meter

Attachment ............................................... 108

4.5 Yarn Bulk .................................................................... 108

4.5.1 Textured Filament Yarns .......................... 109

4.6 Friction ........................................................................ 110

4.6.1 Coil Friction .............................................. 111

4.6.2 Measuring Yarn Friction ........................... 112

References .......................................................................... 114

5. Strength And Elongation Tests ............................. 115

5.1 Introduction ................................................................. 115

5.2 Definitions ................................................................... 115

5.2.1 Units ......................................................... 115

5.2.2 Breaking Strength; Tensile Strength ......... 116

5.2.3 Stress ....................................................... 116

5.2.4 Specific (Mass) Stress .............................. 116

5.2.5 Tenacity ................................................... 117

5.2.6 Breaking Length ....................................... 117

5.2.7 Elongation ................................................ 118

5.2.8 Strain ....................................................... 118

Contents ix

This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation.

5.2.9 Extension Percentage .............................. 118

5.2.10 Gauge Length .......................................... 118

5.3 Force Elongation Curve ............................................. 118

5.3.1 Yield Point ................................................ 119

5.3.2 Modulus ................................................... 122

5.3.3 Work of Rupture ....................................... 125

5.3.4 Time Dependence .................................... 127

5.3.5 Elastic Recovery ...................................... 129

5.4 Factors Affecting Tensile Testing .............................. 132

5.4.1 Type of Testing Machine .......................... 132

5.4.2 Specimen Length ..................................... 134

5.4.3 Rate of Loading and Time to Break .......... 134

5.4.4 Effect of Humidity and Temperature ......... 135

5.4.5 Previous History of the Specimen ............. 136

5.4.6 Clamping Problems .................................. 136

5.5 Fibre Strength ............................................................. 138

5.5.1 Single Fibre Strength ................................ 138

5.5.2 Bundle Strength ....................................... 140

5.6 Yarn Strength ............................................................. 142

5.6.1 Yarn Strength: Single Strand Method ....... 143

5.6.2 Yarn Strength: Skein Method ................... 144

5.7 Fabric Strength ........................................................... 145

5.7.1 Strip Strength ........................................... 145

5.7.2 Grab Test ................................................. 146

5.8 Tear Tests .................................................................. 147

5.8.1 Measuring Tearing Strength ..................... 147

5.8.2 Single Rip Tear Test ................................. 148

5.8.3 Wing Rip Tear Test .................................. 150

5.8.4 Elmendorf Tear Tester ............................. 152

5.9 Bursting Strength ....................................................... 154

5.9.1 Diaphragm Bursting Test .......................... 154

x Contents

This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation.

5.9.2 Ball Bursting Strength ............................... 156

5.10 Stretch and Recovery Properties ............................... 156

5.11 Seam Strength ........................................................... 160

5.11.1 Seam Slippage ......................................... 160

5.11.2 Seam Slippage Tests ............................... 161

5.11.3 Fixed Load Method ................................... 162

5.11.4 Upholstery Seam Slippage ....................... 164

General Reading ................................................................. 165

References .......................................................................... 166

6. Dimensional Stability ............................................. 168

6.1 Introduction ................................................................. 168

6.1.1 Hygral Expansion ..................................... 169

6.1.2 Relaxation Shrinkage ............................... 171

6.1.3 Swelling Shrinkage ................................... 172

6.1.4 Felting Shrinkage ..................................... 173

6.1.5 Weft Knitted Wool Fabrics ........................ 174

6.2 Methods of Measuring Dimensional Stability ............ 174

6.2.1 Marking Out Samples ............................... 174

6.2.2 WIRA Steaming Cylinder .......................... 175

6.2.3 Relaxation Shrinkage ............................... 177

6.2.4 Washable Wool ........................................ 177

6.2.5 Washing Programmes .............................. 180

6.2.6 Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning ....... 181

6.2.7 Dimensional Stability to Dry Heat ............. 181

General Reading ................................................................. 182

References .......................................................................... 182

7. Serviceability ........................................................... 184

7.1 Introduction ................................................................. 184

Contents xi

This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation.

7.2 Snagging .................................................................... 185

7.2.1 Mace Snagging Test ................................ 186

7.3 Pilling .......................................................................... 186

7.3.1 Pilling Tests .............................................. 190

7.4 Abrasion Resistance .................................................. 195

7.4.1 Factors Affecting Abrasion

Resistance ............................................... 195

7.4.2 Abrasion Tests ......................................... 196

7.5 Wearer Trials .............................................................. 204

7.5.1 Advantages of Wearer Trials .................... 204

7.5.2 Disadvantages of Wearer Trials ............... 205

7.5.3 Advantages of Laboratory Tests ............... 206

7.5.4 Disadvantages of Laboratory Tests .......... 206

7.5.5 Design of Trials ........................................ 206

References .......................................................................... 207

8. Comfort .................................................................... 209

8.1 Introduction ................................................................. 209

8.2 Thermal Comfort ........................................................ 209

8.2.1 Heat Balance ............................................ 209

8.2.2 Heat Loss ................................................. 210

8.2.3 Air Permeability ........................................ 217

8.2.4 Measurement of Thermal

Conductivity ............................................. 219

8.2.5 Measurement of Water Vapour

Permeability ............................................. 223

8.3 Moisture Transport ..................................................... 227

8.3.1 Wetting ..................................................... 228

8.3.2 Wicking .................................................... 229

8.3.3 Longitudinal Wicking ................................ 230

8.3.4 Wicking Test ............................................. 230

Tải ngay đi em, còn do dự, trời tối mất!