Marine Cosmeceuticals: Trends and Prospects

Edited by

Se-Kwon Kim

CRC Press

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v

Contents

Preface...............................................................................................................................................ix

Editor.................................................................................................................................................xi

Contributors.................................................................................................................................... xiii

Chapter 1 Cosmeceuticals from Marine Resources: Prospects and Commercial Trends.............1

Se-Kwon Kim and Isuru Wijesekara

Chapter 2 Chemical and Biological Aspects of Marine Cosmeceuticals.................................... 11

Bin Yang, Xiuping Lin, Xue-Feng Zhou, Xian-Wen Yang, and Yonghong Liu

Chapter 3 Chemical Properties of Chitosan as a Marine Cosmeceutical....................................39

Laura Calderón Muñoz, Elena Lecumberri Lima, Ruth Expósito Harris,

María Ángeles López Mengíbar, Niuris Acosta Contreras, and

Ángeles María Heras Caballero

Chapter 4 Marine Phytochemical Compounds and Their Cosmeceutical Applications............. 51

Abdul Bakrudeen Ali Ahmed and Rosna Mat Taha

Chapter 5 Effect of Marine Cosmeceuticals on the Pigmentation of Skin..................................63

Sumathy Babitha and Eun-Ki Kim

Chapter 6 Photoprotective and Cosmeceutical Prospects from Marine Origin.......................... 67

Ramjee Pallela and Se-Kwon Kim

Chapter 7 Prospects of Marine Sponge Collagen and Its Applications in Cosmetology............77

Janapala Venkateswara Rao, Ramjee Pallela, and G.V.S. Bhanu Prakash

Chapter 8 Skin Photoprotection by Marine Carotenoids........................................................... 105

Kazuo Miyashita, Nana Mikami, M. Airanthi K. Widjaja-Adhi, Masayuki Abe,

and Masashi Hosokawa

Chapter 9 Role of Astaxanthin in Cosmeceutical Applications................................................ 119

Pamela Chávez-Crooker, Johanna Obreque, Jeanette Vera, and Karla Moya

Chapter 10 Effect of Marine Collagen Peptide on Skin Condition.............................................125

Kenji Sato and Yasutaka Shigemura

vi Contents

Chapter 11 Fish Collagen and Tissue Repair............................................................................... 133

Yoshihiko Hayashi, Shizuka Yamada, Takeshi Ikeda, and Kajiro Yanagiguchi

Chapter 12 Red Algal Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids (MAAs) as Potential

Cosmeceuticals..................................................................................................... 143

Yvonne V. Yuan and Yasantha Athukorala

Chapter 13 Cosmeceutical Applications of Chitosan and Its Derivatives................................... 169

Mahinda Senevirathne, Chang-Bum Ahn, Se-Kwon Kim, and Jae-Young Je

Chapter 14 Brown Algae-Derived Compounds as Potential Cosmeceuticals............................. 179

Mahinda Senevirathne and Se-Kwon Kim

Chapter 15 Biological Properties of Cosmeceuticals Derived from Marine Algae.................... 191

Se-Kwon Kim and Ratih Pangestuti

Chapter 16 Hair Biology and Care Product Ingredients from Marine Organisms...................... 201

Se-Kwon Kim and Soon-Sun Bak

Chapter 17 Cosmeceuticals from Marine Fish and Shellfish...................................................... 211

Vazhiyil Venugopal

Chapter 18 Unlocking the Power of Marine Cosmeceuticals for Wrinkle-Free Skin................. 233

Dinanath B. Fulse, Spandana R. Kopalli, and Sushruta Koppula

Chapter 19 Sea Water and Sea Mud: Cosmeceuticals Applications............................................ 241

Se-Kwon Kim, Jayachandran Venkatesan, and P.N. Sudha

Chapter 20 Potential Cosmeceutical Applications of Phlorotannins and Fucoidans from

Marine Algae in the Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis............................................... 257

Noel Vinay Thomas and Se-Kwon Kim

Chapter 21 Application of Chitin Nanofibrils and Collagen of Marine Origin as Bioactive

Ingredients................................................................................................................. 267

Pierfrancesco Morganti, Paola del Ciotto, Gianluca Morganti, and

Véronique Fabien-Soulé

Chapter 22 Screening Strategies for the Discovery of Marine Microbial Cosmeceuticals......... 291

Se-Kwon Kim and Ira Bhatnagar

Contents vii

Chapter 23 Cosmeceutical Properties of Brown Algae and Its Industrial Applications.............305

You-Jin Jeon, W.A.J.P. Wijesinghe, and Se-Kwon Kim

Chapter 24 Potential Applications of Chitosan as a Marine Cosmeceutical............................... 319

Elena Lecumberri Lima, Laura Calderón Muñoz, Ruth Expósito Harris, and

Ángeles María Heras Caballero

Chapter 25 Industrial Applications of Marine Cosmeceuticals................................................... 335

Janak K. Vidanarachchi and Maheshika S. Kurukulasuriya

Chapter 26 Aquatic and Marine Bioactive Antimicrobial Peptides and Biosurfactants for

the Cosmeceutical Industry....................................................................................... 371

Jen-Leih Wu and Jenn-Kan Lu

Chapter 27 Industrial Prospects of the Cosmeceuticals Derived from Marine Mucin............... 391

Se-Kwon Kim and Fatih Karadeniz

ix

Preface

Science is the intellectual activity carried on by humans that is formulated to discover newer and

novel information about the natural world in which we thrive. Humans have developed great skills to

organize and use this basic information and translate it into meaningful output for their well-being

through logical approaches. Cosmeceutical science is one branch of this never-ending curiosity of

humans to design the best out of the existing framework of resources in the natural environment.

Although a very promising field, it is yet to achieve its bloom. A vast exploration of various animal

and plant sources in search of cosmeceuticals has led to some efficient products. However, most of

them are now being associated with secondary effects of unknown magnitude of complications.

The idea of this book is to investigate oceanic sources as an alternative to these complications and

survey the possibilities of bringing together this vast treasure of marine environment toward safer

cosmeceutic development. As an editor of this book, I have aimed to accumulate the latest research

in this field from across the globe and highlight the potential of marine micro- and macroflora and

fauna as effective agents for the development of novel cosmeceuticals. The concept of this book had

been developing since I started researching hair growth factors and anti-inflammatory compounds

of marine origin. I always used to marvel at the gems of the aquatic milieu for their possession of

substances par excellence and wonder why the exploration and exploitation of marine cosmeceuti￾cals is a long-time task. The question of why, despite this great potential, just a few cosmeceutical

products from marine sources have entered the cosmetic market has pushed me to commit to the

complex task of compiling a book on this topic of utmost interest. I looked into the research groups

working in the field of aquatic sciences, marine environment in particular, and started reviewing

their concepts of developing marine-derived cosmeceuticals. After thorough research, I decided on

a collective contribution of researchers from different countries for their input, and finally wrote

this book to present a consolidated overview of the marine environment as a productive source of

novel cosmeceuticals, and the future prospects of seeing marine sources as cosmeceutics factories.

With contributions from Korea, Japan, China, India, Spain, France, Chile, Malaysia, Canada,

Italy, Sri Lanka, and Taiwan, this book holds great insight for cosmetologists and marine research￾ers in general. My sincere thanks to all the contributors, who have brought the best themes and

concepts to the book. The layout of the book has been kept simple and understandable with explana￾tions wherever possible. Part I starts with a general introduction to cosmeceuticals and marine cos￾meceutical sources. It covers an overview of the biological activities of different marine sources and

the class of cosmeceutical agents that they may deliver. This is followed by the chemical properties

of marine cosmeceuticals, with special emphasis on chitosan as a cosmeceutical agent, in Part II.

The most extended part of this book, Part III, covers the range of biological properties and bioactive

promise that the oceanic environment holds in the field of cosmetology. The information covered

in this part is useful for cosmetologists and marine researchers looking for marine alternatives to

existing cosmeceuticals in terms of skin whitening, antiwrinkling, photo protection, tissue repair,

and antiacne, as well as hair growth. Collagen is an important protein in our skin and its degrada￾tion results have been associated with aging. Part III also covers information on marine fish and

sponge-derived collagens as effective skin treatment agents to be utilized in antiaging formulations.

Biotechnology is an emerging science that in conjunction with marine biology and microbiology

may lead to wonders in the field of cosmetology. I have explored the role of biotechnology in marine

cosmeceutical science, and Part IV of this book deals with this, where we have presented different

strategies for enhanced cosmeceutical production. Part V wraps up the book with the industrial

applications of marine cosmeceuticals. Apart from other applications, this part covers information

on aquatic and marine bioactive antimicrobial peptides for the cosmeceutical industry, which is

x Preface

an important aspect of marine protein chemistry. This book offers comprehensive knowledge on

novel marine cosmeceutical agents, their biological and chemical properties, as well as industrial

applications.

I owe deep gratitude to the people who helped me and encouraged me in the process of writing

this book. My students, who are the budding researchers, have extended their helping hands for this

effort of mine. I would also like to thank Taylor & Francis for their willingness in this project and

publishing this book with their in-depth professionalism and sense of excellence. I hope reading this

book is a great experience for you.

Se-Kwon Kim

xi

Editor

Se-Kwon Kim, PhD, is a professor of marine biochemistry in the Department of Chemistry,

Pukyong National University (PKNU), Busan, South Korea. Dr. Kim received his MSc and PhD

degrees from PKNU and became a faculty member there. He conducted his postdoctoral study at

the Bioprocess Laboratory, Department of Food Science and Technology, University of Illinois,

Urbana-Champaign, Illinois (1988–1989). He became a visiting scientist at the Memorial University

of Newfoundland in Canada (1999–2000).

In 2004, Dr. Kim became the director for the Marine Bioprocess Research Center (MBPRC) at

Pukyong National University. He served as president of the Korean Society of Chitin and Chitosan

(1986–1990) and the Korean Society of Marine Biotechnology (2006–2007). Dr. Kim was also the

chairman for 7th Asia-Pacific Chitin and Chitosan Symposium, which was held in South Korea in

2006. He is one of the board members of the International Society of Marine Biotechnology (IMB)

and the International Society for Nutraceuticals and Functional Foods (ISNFF).

He was the editor-in-chief of the Korean Journal of Life Sciences (1995–1997), the Korean

Journal of Fisheries Science and Technology (2006–2007), and the Korean Journal of Marine

Bioscience and Biotechnology (2006–present). To the credit of his research, he won Best Paper

awards from the American Oil Chemists’ Society (AOCS) and the Korean Society of Fisheries

Science and Technology (KSFST) in 2002.

His major research interests are investigation and development of bioactive substances derived

from marine organisms and their application as cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals via marine bio￾processing and mass production technologies. He expanded his research fields into the industrial￾ization of antiphotoaging and photoprotective substances from marine organisms. To date, Dr. Kim

has authored over 450 research papers and holds 72 patents. In addition, he has written or edited

more than 30 books.

xiii

Contributors

Masayuki Abe

Faculty of Fisheries Sciences

Hokkaido University

Hokkaido, Japan

and

Kaneka Co.

Osaka, Japan

Niuris Acosta Contreras

Instituto de Estudios Biofuncionales

Departamento de Química Física II

Facultad de Farmacia

Universidad Complutense

Madrid, Spain

Chang-Bum Ahn

School of Food Technology and Nutrition

Chonnam National University

Busan, Republic of Korea

Abdul Bakrudeen Ali Ahmed

Institute of Biological Sciences

Faculty of Science

University of Malaya

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Yasantha Athukorala

School of Nutrition

Ryerson University

Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Sumathy Babitha

Department of Biological Engineering

National Research Lab of Skin Bioactive

Materials

Inha University

Incheon, Republic of Korea

Soon-Sun Bak

Marine Bioprocess Research Center

Pukyong National University

Busan, Republic of Korea

Ira Bhatnagar

Marine Biochemistry Laboratory

Department of Chemistry

Pukyong National University

Busan, Republic of Korea

and

Infectious Diseases

Centre for Cellular and Molecular Biology

Hyderabad, India

Laura Calderón Muñoz

Instituto de Estudios Biofuncionales

Departamento de Química Física II

Facultad de Farmacia

Universidad Complutense

Madrid, Spain

Pamela Chávez-Crooker

Biotechnologies Aguamarina Research Center

(CR97)

Antofagasta, Chile

Paola del Ciotto

R&D Lab

MAVI Sud

Aprilia (LT), Italy

Ruth Expósito Harris

Instituto de Estudios Biofuncionales

Departamento de Química Física II

Facultad de Farmacia

Universidad Complutense

Madrid, Spain

Véronique Fabien-Soulé

Regulatory Affairs

Puteaux, France

Dinanath B. Fulse

Synthetic Cellular Chemistry Laboratory

Advanced Science Institute RIKEN

Saitama, Japan

Yoshihiko Hayashi

Department of Cariology

Graduate School of Biomedical Sciences

Nagasaki University

Nagasaki, Japan

xiv Contributors

Ángeles María Heras Caballero

Instituto de Estudios Biofuncionales

Departamento de Química Física II

Facultad de Farmacia

Universidad Complutense

Madrid, Spain

Masashi Hosokawa

Faculty of Fisheries Sciences

Hokkaido University

Hokkaido, Japan

Takeshi Ikeda

Department of Cariology

Nagasaki University Hospital

Nagasaki, Japan

Jae-Young Je

School of Food Technology and Nutrition

Chonnam National University

Yeosu, Republic of Korea

You-Jin Jeon

Faculty of Marine Biomedical Science

Jeju National University

Jeju, Republic of Korea

Fatih Karadeniz

Department of Chemistry

Pukyong National University

Busan, Republic of Korea

Eun-Ki Kim

Department of Biological Engineering

National Research Lab of Skin Bioactive

Materials

Inha University

Incheon, Republic of Korea

Se-Kwon Kim

Department of Chemistry, and

Marine Bioprocess Research Center

Pukyong National University

Busan, Republic of Korea

Spandana R. Kopalli

Department of Pharmacology

College of Medicine

Seoul National University

Seoul, Republic of Korea

Sushruta Koppula

College of Biomedical and Health Sciences

Konkuk University

Chungbuk-Do, Chungju, Republic of Korea

Maheshika S. Kurukulasuriya

Department of Animal Science

Faculty of Agriculture

University of Peradeniya

Peradeniya, Sri Lanka

Elena Lecumberri Lima

Instituto de Estudios Biofuncionales

Departamento de Química Física II

Facultad de Farmacia

Universidad Complutense

Madrid, Spain

Xiuping Lin

Key Laboratory of Marine Bioresources

Sustainable Utilization

Guangdong Key Laboratory of Marine Materia

Medica

Research Center for Marine Microbes

South China Sea Institute of Oceanology

Chinese Academy of Sciences

Guangzhou, China

Yonghong Liu

Key Laboratory of Marine Bioresources

Sustainable Utilization

Guangdong Key Laboratory of Marine Materia

Medica

Research Center for Marine Microbes

South China Sea Institute of Oceanology

Chinese Academy of Sciences

Guangzhou, China

María Ángeles López Mengíbar

Instituto de Estudios Biofuncionales

Departamento de Química Física II

Facultad de Farmacia

Universidad Complutense

Madrid, Spain

Jenn-Kan Lu

Department of Aquaculture

National Taiwan Ocean University

Keelung, Taiwan