Apparel-manufacturing-technology

Apparel

Manufacturing

Technology

Apparel

Manufacturing

Technology

T. Karthik

P. Ganesan

D. Gopalakrishnan

Apparel

Manufacturing

Technology

T. Karthik

P. Ganesan

D. Gopalakrishnan

CRC Press

Taylor & Francis Group

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Boca Raton, FL 33487-2742

© 2017 by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC

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Library of Congress Cataloging‑in‑Publication Data

Names: Karthik, T., author. | Ganesan, P. (Industrial engineering professor),

author. | Gopalakrishnan, D., author.

Title: Apparel manufacturing technology / T. Karthik, P. Ganesan, D.

Gopalakrishnan.

Description: Boca Raton : Taylor & Francis, a CRC title, part of the Taylor &

Francis imprint, a member of the Taylor & Francis Group, the academic

division of T&F Informa, plc, [2016] | Includes bibliographical references.

Identifiers: LCCN 2016004249 | ISBN 9781498763752 (hardcover : acid-free

paper)

Subjects: LCSH: Dressmaking. | Clothing factories. | Clothing trade. |

Manufacturing processes.

Classification: LCC TT497 .K38 2016 | DDC 687--dc23

LC record available at http://lccn.loc.gov/2016004249

Visit the Taylor & Francis Web site at

http://www.taylorandfrancis.com

and the CRC Press Web site at

http://www.crcpress.com

v

Contents

Preface.................................................................................................................. xxv

Authors ............................................................................................................... xxix

1. Introduction to Apparel Industry ...............................................................1

1.1 Structure of Textiles and Clothing Industry.....................................1

1.1.1 Clothing.....................................................................................2

1.1.2 Textiles.......................................................................................3

1.2 Various Departments in the Garment Industry ...............................3

1.2.1 Merchandising .........................................................................4

1.2.2 Sampling Department.............................................................4

1.2.3 Fabric Sourcing.........................................................................4

1.2.4 Purchasing Department..........................................................5

1.2.5 Fabric Inspection Department ...............................................5

1.2.6 Accessory Stores Department................................................5

1.2.7 Production Planning Department.........................................5

1.2.8 Laboratory Department ..........................................................5

1.2.9 Machine Maintenance.............................................................5

1.2.10 CAD Section .............................................................................6

1.2.11 Cutting Section.........................................................................6

1.2.12 Production Department..........................................................6

1.2.13 Industrial Engineering Section..............................................7

1.2.14 Embroidery Department.........................................................7

1.2.15 Fabric Washing Section...........................................................7

1.2.16 Quality Assurance Department.............................................7

1.2.17 Finishing Department.............................................................7

1.3 Classification of Garments...................................................................8

1.3.1 Harmonised System ................................................................9

1.3.1.1 Classification and Categories of Apparel

under Harmonised System.....................................9

1.4 Raw Material for Garment Manufacturing..................................... 11

1.4.1 Fibre Selection in Garment Manufacturing....................... 11

1.4.2 Yarns ........................................................................................ 11

1.4.2.1 Yarn Specifications ................................................. 11

1.4.3 Fabric........................................................................................ 13

1.4.3.1 Woven Fabrics......................................................... 14

1.4.3.2 Knitted Fabrics........................................................ 16

1.4.3.3 Matted Fabrics (Felted and Nonwoven).............. 18

1.4.3.4 Leather and Furs .................................................... 18

1.5 Fabric Characteristics for Apparel Manufacturing........................ 18

vi Contents

1.5.1 Style Characteristics .............................................................. 19

1.5.2 Hand Characteristics............................................................. 19

1.5.3 Visual Characteristics............................................................ 21

1.5.4 Utility Characteristics ........................................................... 21

1.5.4.1 Transmission Characteristics................................ 21

1.5.4.2 Transformation Characteristics............................ 21

1.5.5 Durability Characteristics ....................................................22

1.5.6 Garment Production Working Characteristics..................23

1.6 Fabric Inspection Systems.................................................................. 24

1.6.1 Four-Point System.................................................................. 24

1.6.2 Ten-Point System....................................................................26

1.6.3 Graniteville “78” System.......................................................27

1.6.4 Dallas System .........................................................................27

References .......................................................................................................28

2. Pattern Making ............................................................................................. 31

2.1 Body Measurement............................................................................. 31

2.1.1 Body Anatomy........................................................................ 31

2.1.1.1 Eight Head Theory................................................. 31

2.1.1.2 Ten Head Theory....................................................33

2.1.2 Body Measurement................................................................35

2.1.2.1 Taking Body Measurement...................................36

2.2 Patterns.................................................................................................38

2.2.1 Types of Paper Pattern ..........................................................39

2.2.2 Pattern Making Tools ............................................................40

2.2.2.1 Measuring Devices................................................. 41

2.2.2.2 Drafting Devices.....................................................42

2.2.2.3 Marking Devices ....................................................43

2.2.2.4 Cutting Devices ......................................................43

2.2.2.5 Sewing Devices.......................................................44

2.2.2.6 Finishing or Pressing Devices ..............................44

2.2.2.7 Miscellaneous or General Tools ...........................44

2.2.3 Principles of Pattern Drafting..............................................45

2.2.3.1 Advantages of Paper Pattern ................................46

2.2.4 Commercial Pattern...............................................................46

2.2.4.1 Merits .......................................................................47

2.2.4.2 Demerits...................................................................47

2.2.5 Steps in Pattern Drafting ......................................................47

2.2.5.1 Basic Front Bodice and Back Bodice

Pattern (Figure 2.5).................................................47

2.2.5.2 Basic Sleeve Pattern (Figure 2.6)...........................48

2.2.6 Pattern Draping......................................................................48

2.2.6.1 Draping an Adhesive Paper Dress Form ............49

2.2.6.2 Draping on the Stand............................................. 52

2.2.7 Flat Pattern Technique ..........................................................53

Contents vii

2.2.7.1 Types of Darts .........................................................54

2.2.7.2 Locating the Dart Point .........................................54

2.2.7.3 Pivot Method...........................................................56

2.2.7.4 Slash and Spread Method .....................................59

2.2.7.5 Measurement Method ........................................... 62

2.2.8 Pattern Grading......................................................................63

2.2.8.1 Types of Grading Systems.....................................63

References .......................................................................................................64

3. Fabric Spreading and Cutting.................................................................... 67

3.1 Cutting Department ........................................................................... 67

3.2 Marker .................................................................................................. 67

3.2.1 Marker Parameters ................................................................68

3.2.1.1 Relation to the Relative Symmetry

of Garment...........................................................68

3.2.1.2 Mode.........................................................................69

3.2.2 Types of Markers.................................................................... 70

3.2.2.1 Sectioned Markers.................................................. 70

3.2.2.2 Continuous Markers .............................................. 70

3.2.3 Marker Planning.................................................................... 70

3.2.3.1 Requirements of Marker Planning ......................71

3.2.4 Construction of Markers.......................................................72

3.2.5 Methods of Marker Planning...............................................73

3.2.5.1 Manual Marker Planning......................................73

3.2.5.2 Computerised Marker Planning.......................... 74

3.2.6 Marker Efficiency...................................................................75

3.3 Spreading .............................................................................................75

3.3.1 Types of Spreads ....................................................................75

3.3.2 Objectives of the Spreading Process ................................... 76

3.3.2.1 Shade Sorting of Fabric Rolls................................ 76

3.3.2.2 Ply Direction and Lay Stability ............................ 76

3.3.2.3 Alignment of Plies..................................................77

3.3.2.4 Correct Ply Tension................................................77

3.3.2.5 Elimination of Fabric Faults..................................77

3.3.2.6 Elimination of Static Electricity, Fusion

and Tight Selvedge in Cutting..............................78

3.3.2.7 Fabric Control during Spreading.........................78

3.3.2.8 Avoidance of Distortion in the Spread................78

3.3.3 Method of Spreading.............................................................78

3.3.3.1 Spreading Table ......................................................79

3.3.3.2 Solid Bar...................................................................80

3.3.3.3 Stationary Rack.......................................................80

3.3.3.4 Drop-In Unwinder.................................................80

3.3.3.5 Rolling Rack............................................................80

3.3.3.6 Turntable..................................................................80

viii Contents

3.3.3.7 Semi-Automatic Rolling Rack with Electric

Eye and Catchers ....................................................80

3.3.3.8 Automatic Rolling Rack......................................... 81

3.3.3.9 Automatic Turntable ..............................................82

3.3.3.10 Tubular Knit Fabric Spreader ...............................82

3.3.4 Nature of Fabric Packages ....................................................82

3.3.5 Advancements in Spreading ................................................83

3.3.6 Evaluation of Spreading Cost...............................................84

3.3.6.1 Spreading Labour Cost..........................................84

3.3.6.2 Spreading and Deadheading................................84

3.3.6.3 The Cost of Ends and Damages ...........................84

3.4 Cutting..................................................................................................84

3.4.1 Objectives of Cutting.............................................................85

3.4.1.1 Accuracy of Cut ......................................................85

3.4.1.2 Clean Edges.............................................................85

3.4.1.3 Support of the Lay..................................................85

3.4.1.4 Consistent Cutting .................................................85

3.4.2 Preparation for Cutting.........................................................85

3.4.2.1 Moving the Spreading Machine Aside ...............85

3.4.2.2 Facilitating Shrinkage of the Lay.........................86

3.4.2.3 Rechecking the Marker .........................................86

3.4.2.4 Fastening the Marker to the Spread ....................86

3.4.3 Methods of Cutting................................................................86

3.4.3.1 Fully Manual Methods ..........................................86

3.4.3.2 Manually Operated Power Knives ......................87

3.4.3.3 Computerised Methods of Cutting...................... 91

3.4.3.4 Auxiliary Devices...................................................94

3.4.4 Preparation of Cut Work for Sewing Room .......................95

3.4.4.1 Bundling..................................................................95

3.4.4.2 Shade Separation....................................................95

3.4.4.3 Indication of the Face Side of Fabrics ..................97

3.4.4.4 Work Ticketing .......................................................97

References .......................................................................................................97

4. Sewing Machine ...........................................................................................99

4.1 Classification of Sewing Machine.....................................................99

4.1.1 Sewing Machine Classification Based on

Its Bed Type......................................................................100

4.1.2 Sewing Machine Classification Based on Machine

Type........................................................................................ 100

4.2 Sewing Machine Parts and Functions ........................................... 100

4.3 Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine................................................ 100

4.4 Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine.............................................. 108

4.5 Special Sewing Machines ................................................................ 108

4.5.1 Overlock Machine................................................................ 108

Contents ix

4.5.2 Bar Tacking Machine........................................................... 109

4.5.3 Buttonhole Sewing Machines ............................................ 110

4.5.3.1 Buttonhole Machine Types ................................. 110

4.5.4 Button Sewing Machine...................................................... 111

4.5.5 Feed of Arm Sewing Machine ........................................... 111

4.5.6 Blind Stitch Machine ........................................................... 112

4.6 Stitch-Forming Mechanisms ........................................................... 112

4.6.1 Thread Control Devices ...................................................... 113

4.6.2 Sewing Needles.................................................................... 114

4.6.3 Lower Stitch-Forming Devices........................................... 114

4.6.3.1 Loopers .................................................................. 114

4.6.3.2 Stitch Tongues or Chaining Plates..................... 114

4.6.3.3 Loop Spreader....................................................... 115

4.6.3.4 Thread Finger ....................................................... 115

4.6.4 Throat Plate........................................................................... 115

4.6.5 Stitch Formation Sequence in Lock Stitch Machine ....... 115

4.7 Embroidery Machine........................................................................ 117

4.7.1 Free-Motion Machine Embroidery.................................... 118

4.7.2 Computerised Machine Embroidery ................................ 118

4.7.2.1 Design Files ........................................................... 119

4.7.2.2 Editing Designs .................................................... 119

4.7.2.3 Loading the Design.............................................. 119

4.7.2.4 Stabilising the Fabric............................................ 119

4.7.2.5 Embroidering the Design.................................... 119

References ..................................................................................................... 120

5. Sewing Thread and Needles ....................................................................123

5.1 Sewing Thread ..................................................................................123

5.1.1 Factors Influencing the Aesthetic Characteristics of

Sewing Thread .....................................................................123

5.1.2 Factors Affecting Performance of Sewing

Thread ...................................................................................123

5.1.3 Basic Requirement of Sewing Thread............................... 124

5.1.3.1 Sewability.............................................................. 124

5.1.3.2 Thread Performance in Seam............................. 124

5.1.4 Properties of Sewing Thread ............................................. 124

5.1.5 Classification of Sewing Thread........................................125

5.1.5.1 Classification Based on Substrate ...................... 126

5.1.5.2 Classification Based on Thread

Construction ......................................................... 126

5.1.5.3 Classification Based on Thread Finish.............. 129

5.1.6 Twist of the Sewing Thread ............................................... 129

5.1.7 Sewing Thread Size............................................................. 130

5.1.7.1 Ticket Numbering ................................................ 131

5.1.8 Sewing Thread Consumption............................................ 131

x Contents

5.1.8.1 Measurement of Actual Sewing Thread

Consumption ........................................................ 132

5.1.8.2 Determination of Thread Consumption

Using Thread Consumption Ratios................... 132

5.1.9 Applications of Sewing Threads ....................................... 133

5.1.10 Sewing Thread Packages .................................................... 133

5.2 Sewing Machine Needles ................................................................ 135

5.2.1 Parts of a Needle .................................................................. 135

5.2.2 Special Needles .................................................................... 137

5.2.3 Identification of Sewing Needle ........................................ 137

5.2.3.1 System .................................................................... 137

5.2.3.2 Point........................................................................ 137

5.2.3.3 Needle Size............................................................ 140

5.2.4 General Purpose Needles ................................................... 141

5.2.5 Specialty Needles................................................................. 141

5.2.6 Surface Finishing of Sewing Needles ............................... 141

References ..................................................................................................... 142

6. Seams and Stitches..................................................................................... 145

6.1 Seams .................................................................................................. 145

6.1.1 Classification of Seam ......................................................... 145

6.1.1.1 Class 1: Superimposed Seam (SS) ...................... 146

6.1.1.2 Class 2: Lapped Seam (LS).................................. 146

6.1.1.3 Class 3: Bound Seam (BS).................................... 147

6.1.1.4 Class 4: Flat Seam (FS)......................................... 147

6.1.1.5 Class 5: Decorative/Ornamental Stitching....... 148

6.1.1.6 Class 6: Edge Finishing/Neatening................... 148

6.1.1.7 Class 7: Edge Stitched Seam................................ 148

6.1.1.8 Class 8: Enclosed Seam........................................ 149

6.1.2 Numerical Expressions of Seams ...................................... 150

6.1.3 Seam Quality........................................................................ 150

6.2 Stitches................................................................................................ 150

6.2.1 Class 100: Chain Stitches..................................................... 151

6.2.2 Class 200: Hand Stitches ..................................................... 151

6.2.3 Class 300: Lock Stitches ...................................................... 152

6.2.4 Class 400: Multi-Thread Chain Stitches............................ 154

6.2.5 Class 500: Over-Edge Chain Stitches ................................ 155

6.2.6 Class 600: Covering Chain Stitches................................... 156

6.3 Seam Quality Issues ......................................................................... 156

6.3.1 Seam Puckering ................................................................... 160

6.3.1.1 Seam Puckering Due to Structural Jamming..... 160

6.3.1.2 Tension Puckering................................................ 161

6.3.1.3 Feed Puckering..................................................... 162

6.3.1.4 Shrinkage Puckering ........................................... 163

References ..................................................................................................... 164

Contents xi

7. Sewing Machine Feed Mechanisms and Attachments....................... 167

7.1 Elements of Feeding Mechanism.................................................... 167

7.1.1 Presser Foot........................................................................... 167

7.1.2 Feed Dog ............................................................................... 168

7.1.3 Throat Plate........................................................................... 169

7.2 Types of Feed Mechanism ............................................................... 169

7.2.1 Manual Feed......................................................................... 169

7.2.2 Drop Feed.............................................................................. 169

7.2.2.1 Problems in Drop Feed........................................ 170

7.2.3 Differential Feed .................................................................. 170

7.2.4 Top Feed Mechanism .......................................................... 171

7.2.4.1 Vibrating Presser Foot ......................................... 171

7.2.4.2 Alternating Presser Foot ..................................... 172

7.2.5 Needle Feed.......................................................................... 172

7.2.5.1 Upper Pivot Needle Feed.................................... 173

7.2.5.2 Central Pivot Needle Feed .................................. 173

7.2.5.3 Parallel Drive Needle Feed ................................. 173

7.2.6 Compound Feed................................................................... 173

7.2.7 Unison Feed.......................................................................... 174

7.2.8 Puller Feed............................................................................ 175

7.2.9 Wheel Feed ........................................................................... 175

7.2.10 Cup Feed ............................................................................... 176

7.3 Special Attachments to Sewing Machines .................................... 176

7.3.1 Position Attachments .......................................................... 177

7.3.1.1 Hemmers ............................................................... 177

7.3.1.2 Ruffler .................................................................... 177

7.3.1.3 Binder..................................................................... 178

7.3.1.4 Tucker..................................................................... 178

7.3.1.5 Gathering Foot...................................................... 178

7.3.2 Guide Attachments.............................................................. 181

7.3.2.1 Zipper Foot............................................................ 181

7.3.2.2 Cording Foot......................................................... 182

7.3.2.3 Circular Attachment............................................ 182

7.3.2.4 Button Sewing Foot.............................................. 183

7.3.2.5 Buttonhole Stabiliser Plate .................................. 183

7.3.2.6 Buttonhole Foot .................................................... 184

7.3.3 Preparation and Finishing Attachments .......................... 184

References ..................................................................................................... 185

8. Fusing, Pressing and Packaging.............................................................. 187

8.1 Fusing ................................................................................................. 187

8.1.1 Purpose of Interlining......................................................... 187

8.1.2 Requirements of Fusing...................................................... 188

8.1.3 Fusing Process...................................................................... 188

8.1.3.1 Base Fabric............................................................. 188

xii Contents

8.1.3.2 Resins ..................................................................... 189

8.1.3.3 Coating Systems ................................................... 189

8.1.4 Fusing Machinery and Equipment ................................... 190

8.1.4.1 Specialised Fusing Presses ................................. 191

8.1.4.2 Hand Iron.............................................................. 194

8.1.4.3 Steam Press ........................................................... 195

8.1.5 Methods of Fusing............................................................... 195

8.1.6 Control of Fusing Quality................................................... 196

8.2 Pressing .............................................................................................. 196

8.2.1 Purpose of Pressing............................................................. 196

8.2.2 Classification of Pressing.................................................... 196

8.2.3 Categories of Pressing......................................................... 197

8.2.4 Basic Components of Pressing ........................................... 197

8.2.5 Classification of Pressing Equipment ............................... 198

8.2.6 Types of Pressing Equipment............................................. 198

8.2.6.1 Hand Irons ............................................................ 198

8.2.6.2 Steam Presses........................................................ 201

8.2.6.3 Steam Finisher......................................................203

8.2.6.4 Tunnel Finisher.....................................................204

8.2.6.5 Press Cladding...................................................... 207

8.2.6.6 Creasing Machines............................................... 207

8.2.6.7 Pleating ..................................................................208

8.2.6.8 Block or Die Pressing...........................................208

8.2.6.9 Permanent Press ................................................... 210

8.3 Garment Packaging .......................................................................... 210

8.3.1 Types of Package Forms...................................................... 211

8.3.2 Types of Packing Materials................................................. 211

8.3.3 Quality Specifications for Packing Materials .................. 211

8.3.4 Package Design .................................................................... 212

8.3.4.1 Functional Requirements.................................... 212

8.3.4.2 Sales Requirements .............................................. 213

8.3.5 Types of Garment Packing in Finishing Section............. 213

8.3.5.1 Stand-Up Pack....................................................... 213

8.3.5.2 Flat Pack................................................................. 215

8.3.5.3 Hanger Pack.......................................................... 215

8.3.5.4 Deadman Pack...................................................... 216

8.3.6 Types of Carton Packing..................................................... 216

8.3.7 Requirements of Packing.................................................... 218

References ..................................................................................................... 218

9. Fullness and Yokes ..................................................................................... 221

9.1 Gathers................................................................................................ 221

9.1.1 Gathering by Hand.............................................................. 221

9.1.2 Gathering by Machine ........................................................ 221

9.1.3 Gathering Using Elastic ......................................................222

Contents xiii

9.1.4 Methods of Controlling Gathers........................................223

9.1.4.1 Process of Gathering............................................ 224

9.2 Pleats ................................................................................................... 224

9.2.1 Knife Pleat............................................................................. 224

9.2.2 Box Pleats .............................................................................. 224

9.2.3 Inverted Pleat........................................................................225

9.2.4 Accordion Pleat ....................................................................226

9.2.5 Sunray Pleat..........................................................................226

9.2.6 Kick Pleat...............................................................................227

9.2.7 Cartridge Pleat......................................................................227

9.2.8 Pinch Pleat.............................................................................227

9.3 Flounces..............................................................................................228

9.4 Tucks ...................................................................................................230

9.5 Darts.................................................................................................... 231

9.5.1 Straight Dart ......................................................................... 232

9.5.2 Curved Outward Dart......................................................... 232

9.5.3 Curved Inward Dart............................................................ 232

9.5.4 Neckline Dart.......................................................................233

9.5.5 Double Pointed Dart............................................................233

9.5.6 Dart in Interfacing ...............................................................233

9.6 Yoke.....................................................................................................233

9.6.1 Selection of Yoke Design.....................................................234

9.6.1.1 Design of the Fabric .............................................234

9.6.1.2 Design of the Garment ........................................235

9.6.1.3 Purpose and Use of the Garment.......................235

9.6.1.4 Sex and Age of the Wearer..................................235

9.6.1.5 Figure and Personality of the Wearer ...............235

9.6.2 Creating Variety in Yoke Design .......................................236

9.6.2.1 Variety in Shape and Size ...................................236

9.6.2.2 Variety in Material and Grain ............................236

9.6.2.3 Designing Seam Line of Yoke............................. 237

9.6.2.4 Decoration within the Yoke ................................ 237

9.6.2.5 Introducing the Yoke at Different

Positions................................................................. 237

9.6.2.6 Designing Yokes Which Release Fullness in

Various Forms.......................................................238

9.6.3 Preparing Patterns of Different Types of Yokes ..............238

9.6.3.1 Yoke without Fullness .........................................238

9.6.3.2 Yoke with Fullness ...............................................238

9.6.4 Attaching Yokes ...................................................................238

References ..................................................................................................... 240

10. Collars ........................................................................................................... 243

10.1 Introduction ....................................................................................... 243

10.1.1 Construction of Collars....................................................... 243

xiv Contents

10.1.2 Types of Collars.................................................................... 246

10.1.3 Selection of Interfacing for Collars.................................... 246

10.1.4 Basic Standards for Collars................................................. 249

References .....................................................................................................250

11. Plackets and Pockets.................................................................................. 251

11.1 Plackets ............................................................................................... 251

11.1.1 Continuous Lap Sleeve Placket.......................................... 251

11.1.1.1 Construction of Continuous Bound

Plackets .................................................................. 251

11.1.2 Two-Piece Placket.................................................................253

11.1.3 Miter Placket.........................................................................255

11.1.3.1 Construction of Miter Placket ............................255

11.1.4 Zipper Placket ......................................................................256

11.1.4.1 Construction of Zipper Placket..........................256

11.1.5 Faced Placket Open ............................................................. 257

11.2 Pockets ................................................................................................ 257

11.2.1 Selection of Pocket Design..................................................258

11.2.2 Patch Pocket..........................................................................259

11.2.2.1 Construction of Patch Pocket..............................260

11.2.3 In-Seam Pocket.....................................................................263

11.2.4 Slash Pocket ..........................................................................263

11.2.5 Flapped Pockets ...................................................................264

11.2.6 Besom Pockets ......................................................................264

11.2.7 Bellows Pockets ....................................................................265

11.2.8 Ticket Pockets .......................................................................265

11.2.9 Variety in Shape, Size, Location and Number.................266

11.2.10 Variety in Material and Grain............................................ 267

11.2.11 Variety in Decorative Details and Trimmings

Used on the Pocket .............................................................. 267

References ..................................................................................................... 267

12. Sleeves and Cuffs ....................................................................................... 269

12.1 Sleeves................................................................................................. 269

12.1.1 Classification of Sleeves ...................................................... 269

12.1.1.1 Straight Sleeve....................................................... 270

12.1.1.2 Shaped Sleeves...................................................... 271

12.1.2 Procedure for Construction of Sleeves .............................272

12.2 Cuffs.................................................................................................... 273

12.2.1 Shirt Cuffs ............................................................................. 273

12.2.2 Barrel Shirt Cuffs ................................................................. 274

12.2.2.1 Single Button Barrel Cuff .................................... 274

12.2.2.2 Double Button Barrel Cuff .................................. 274

12.2.3 French Shirt Cuffs................................................................ 275

12.2.3.1 Kissing French Cuffs............................................ 275